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UC-NRLF 


GIFT  OF 


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Scientific   Potato  Culture 

A  BOOK,  CONCISE  IN  ITS  FORM,  AND  CONTAINING 

A  MINT  OF  SUGGESTIONS  REGARDING  THE 

POTATO  AND  ITS  CULTURE. 

By  A.  J.  Young,  Sr. 


COPYRIGHTED  BY 

A.  J.  YOUNG,  SR. 

m« 


*GRIC.  DEFT 


.  Stttt 


FROM  THE  PRESSES  OF 

HUNTINGTON  BEACH  NEWS 

HUNTINGTON  BEACH,  CAL. 


The  old  home  where  I  have  carried  on  my  experiments  for  twenty-three  years. 


445085 


A.  J.  Young,  Sr.,  the  potato  expert,  who  has  gained  his 
knowledge  through  experimenting  and  growing  the 
crop  for  twenty-three  years. 


AUTHOR'S  PREFACE. 

HIS  book  is  written  with  the  hope  of  fulfilling 
the  various  needs  of  the  potato  growers  of  Cal- 
ifornia. Many  suggestions  will  also  prove  ben- 
eficial to  the  eastern  grower.  Since  the  potato 
is  the  foremost  food  plant  of  the  American  people,  the 
author  has  endeavored  to  give  in  as  brief  and  complete  form 
as  possible  the  much-needed  and  valuable  information. 
Since  the  author  has  made  a  life  study  of  this  problematical 
plant,  there  are  some  profitable  suggestions  unfolded  to  the 
reader  within  these  few  pages.  Such  knowledge  is  the 
author's  personal  experience,  having  learned  from  this,  the 
world's  greatest  teacher. 

The  book  contains  some  interesting  experiments  on  the 
plant  as  well  as  the  practical  culture  of  the  potato. 

A  thorough  study  and  strict  observance  of  the  instruc- 
tions herein  will  insure  the  most  amateurish  growers  of  Cal- 
ifornia remarkable  success. 
July,  1917.  A.  J.  YOUNG,  SR. 


CONTENTS 


Page 

Chapter  1.     Breeding 15 

Pollination  and  crossing  plants,  and  propagation  of  new 
varieties. 

Chapter  2.     Selection  and  Care  of  the  Seed  Potato 25 

The  cause  of  "run  out"  potatoes.  Qualities  good  seed 
should  have.  "Hill  selection."  "Greening." 

Chapter  3.     Cutting  and  Preparing  the  Seed  to  Plant 45 

How  to  cut,  and  size,  of  seed  piece.  Liming  the  cut 
seed.  The  use  of  whole  seed  in  California. 

Chapter  4.    Preparing  to  Plant  and  Planting 55 

Fertilizers.  Essential  plant  foods  in  soil.  Soils  best 
adapted  to  culture  of  potatoes.  Preparation  of  soil. 
Planting  seasons. 

Chapter  5.     Cultivation  and  Irrigation 67 

First  cultivation.  How  to  irrigate.  Hill  culture  or 
ridge  system.  Level  cultivation. 

Chapter  6.    Disease  and  Its  Prevention 75 

Spraying.  Preparation  of  Bordeaux  mixture  and  Paris 
Green.  Insect  pests.  Causes  and  prevention  of  dis- 
eases. 

Chapter  7.    Harvesting  and  Marketing 85 

How  to  grade  for  market.  Sources  of  influence  upon 
quality  of  the  potato. 


TABLE  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


Page 

The  old  home 3 

A.  J.  Young,  Sr 5 

Potato  bloom  ready  for  pollination 13 

Potato  fruit  and  seed 17 

A  perfect  two-year  seedling 21 

The  best  hill  of  seedlings  I  ever  produced 27 

A  potato  in  good  condition  to  plant 33 

Results  of  planting  a  potato  when  too  old 37 

My  1916  field  of  potatoes 41 

A  cutting  ready  for  planting 53 

How  to  plant  to  reproduce  on  top  of  the  vine 65 

Potato  insect  pests 71 

A  potato  affected  with  wilt 78 

The  Scottish  Chief  potato  is  the  best  marketable  tuber  known 83 

Young's  Early  Harvest  King ....87 


The  upper  bloom  shows  the  exact  time  for  pollination. 


BREEDING 


BREEDING. 


CHAPTER  I. 

F  all  interesting  studies  of  plant  life,  the  prob- 
lems confronting  the  potato  breeder,  also  the  na- 
ture of  the  plant,  are  the  most  interesting  to  me. 
There  are  numerous  difficulties  in  potato  breed- 
ing. He  who  would  succeed  must  discover  for  himself 
these  obstacles  and  overcome  them. 

I  have  studied  the  nature  of  the  potato,  have  experi- 
mented, have  propagated  many  kinds,  and  have  grown  the 
potato  extensively  for  about  twenty-three  years,  and  every 
day  there  are  different  problems  confronting  me,  most  of 
which  I  have  solved,  yet  there  is  deep  study  ahead  and 
much  to  be  learned.  I  have  grown  potatoes  from  cuttings, 
and  from  such  cuttings  have  grown  four  crops  in  one  year, 
each  cutting  being  taken  from  the  vine  that  had  been 
grown  from  a  cutting.  The  first  cutting  was  taken  from  a 
seedling,  which  would  make  four  crops  without  using  a 
tuber  for  seed.  I  have  learned  how  to  grow  potatoes  on 
top  of  the  vine,  and  many  more  interesting  experiments, 
and  find  there  are  always  new  ideas  presenting  themselves. 
Some  of  the  problems  confronting  the  potato  breeder 
are:  In  some  cases  it  is  impossible  to  cross  one  desirable 
potato  with  another  which  has  otherwise  good  characteris- 


-    A    v    \    B   R   E   E   D   I    N   G 

tics,  because  of  non-production  of  fertile  pollen.  Again, 
he  must  grow  a  great  number  of  varieties  in  order  to  deter- 
mine which  have  viable  pollen.  The  climatic  and  soil  con- 
ditions greatly  influence  the  production  of  fertile  pollen. 
There  are  some  varieties  of  potatoes  whose  buds  drop  off 
before  opening,  and  some  that  have  a  few  flowers  open  but 
fall  too  soon.  There  are  also  some  whose  flowers  live  for 
several  days  but  frequently  the  pollen  is  not  fertile.  Again, 
many  times  when  the  blooms  do  appear  and  the  pollen  is 
fertile,  in  some  cases  the  seed  balls  or  fruits  are  seedless, 
and  if  they  do  have  seed  it  does  not  always  germinate.  In- 
stantly a  question  arises  in  our  minds,  "Is  there  a  means  by 
which  we  could  produce  this  coveted  fertile  pollen  ?"  There 
are,  however,  a  few  varieties  which  generally  produce  via- 
ble pollen.  The  disease  resistance  of  a  tuber  plays  an  im- 
portant part  in  this  matter. 

After  these  difficulties  have  been  overcome,  the  ac- 
tual crossing  of  the  plants  is  an  easy  matter.  The  plants 
to  be  selected  for  crossing  should  be  strong  and  healthy, 
with  good  characteristics.  The  mother  plant  should  be  es- 
pecially strong,  having  a  desirable  feature  that  is  lacking 
in  the  male  plant,  and  the  male  plant  possessing  some  char- 
acteristics which  would  make  a  good  cross. 

There  are  two  ways  of  pollination.  First,  nature's 
way,  self-pollination.  Second,  hand  pollination,  of  which 
there  are  several  methods. 

One  method  of  hand  pollination  is  as  follows :  First, 
the  female  plant  is  deprived  of  its  anthers.  The  anthers 
stand  erect  in  the  center  of  the  flower,  like  a  cone.  These 
flowers  are  then  covered  with  paper  bags  with  some  foliage 
to  insure  moisture,  for  proper  development.  After  this, 
in  about  two  days,  the  male  plants  are  gathered,  the  pistil 
removed  and  the  pollen  jarred  onto  the  emasculated  plant. 


33333  3 


Potato  fruit  and  seed. 


BREEDING  19 

The  pistil  is  the  small,  cylindrical  form  in  the  center  of  the 
anthers.  Within  a  week's  time  the  blooms  will  have  either 
swollen  or  dropped,  thus  determining  the  success  or  failure 
of  this  method  of  pollination. 

Another  method  of  hand  pollination  is:  After  the 
selection  of  the  mother  plant,  the  corolla,  or  inner  petals, 
and  the  stamens  are  cut  away  before  fully  developed  and 
then  the  blossoms  are  bagged.  At  the  proper  time  for  pol- 
lination, the  pollen  is  collected  from  the  male  plant  with  a 
fine  camel's  hair  brush  and  is  then  dusted  on  the  mother 
plant.  This  is  repeated  for  two  successive  days;  that  is, 
if  the  pistil  has  not  fallen.  When  the  fruit  has  begun  to 
form,  the  paper  bags  are  removed  to  allow  free  access  to 
the  air  and  light.  When  the  seed  balls  are  ripe,  they  are 
gathered  and  allowed  to  dry.  They  are  then  squeezed  out, 
as  they  are  liable  to  decay  if  left  in  the  fruit. 

Still  there  is  another  method,  one  which  the  Japa- 
nese are  said  to  use,  and  is  very  simple.  The  flower  of  the 
male  plant,  when  in  proper  condition  to  pollinate,  is  dusted 
by  hand  onto  the  mother  plant.  The  plant  is  then  covered 
to  keep  stray  pollen  off  the  pollinated  flowers. 

Another  method,  one  which  I  have  found  best  in  my 
experience,  one  which  is  nearest  nature's  way,  therefore 
we  would  conclude  it  to  be  best.  I  do  not  cut  the  flowers  in 
any  way,  but  when  the  flowers  are  to  be  pollinated,  I  limit 
the  blooms  to  two  bunches,  and,  with  the  use  of  a  fine  cam- 
el's hair  brush,  lightly  dust  on  the  pollen  of  the  male  to  the 
mother  plant.  These  always  being  desirable  crosses.  Be- 
fore this,  however,  when  the  mother  plant  is  beginning  to 
bloom,  I  cover  it  with  a  cheese  cloth.  A  frame  can  be  eas- 
ily made  by  pushing  laths  or  sticks  into  the  ground  around 
the  vine  to  keep  the  cheese  cloth  from  touching  it.  Thus 
by  the  use  of  the  cheese  cloth  the  blooms  have  free  access 


20  BREEDING 

to  the  air  and  light,  and  in  no  way  can  stray  pollen  fall  upon 
the  blooms.  The  proper  time  for  pollination  is  about  the 
second  or  third  day  of  bloom.  The  pollination  is  repeated 
for  two  successive  days ;  that  is,  if  the  pistil  has  not  fallen. 
The  cheese  cloth  should  be  left  on  for  about  five  or  six  days. 
When  the  fruits  are  thoroughly  ripe  they  are  gathered, 
seeds  squeezed  out,  washed  in  a  cheese-cloth  bag,  and  al- 
lowed to  dry. 

It  is  always  a  wise  plan  to  select  strong  parent  plants, 
because  they  develop  larger  and  better  seed.  These  seed 
in  turn  develop  larger  potatoes  the  first  year  from  the  seed 
than  those  from  a  delicate  plant.  It  is  of  greater  import- 
ance that  the  mother  plant  be  strong  than  the  male  plant, 
and  care  should  be  taken  in  selecting  the  most  vigorous  ones. 

This  is  a  fact  not  known  by  most  potato  experts,  if  any. 
The  way  of  determining  the  actual  fertility  of  the  potato 
fruits  or  seed  balls  without  the  aid  of  a  magnifying  glass: 
The  balls  are  partially  or  wholly  covered  with  small,  white 
pimples.  The  smooth  fruits  are  rarely,  if  ever,  good. 

I  have,  in  selecting  crosses,  chosen  those  with  about 
the  same  qualities,  with  the  idea  of  improving  them;  while 
at  other  times  I  have  crossed  the  opposites,  with  the  idea 
of  obtaining  different  and  better  qualities.  These  ideas  are 
both  good,  providing  the  crosses  used  possess  favorable 
points.  I  have  noticed  that  the  potatoes  not  seemingly 
closely  related  have  greater  affinity  for  one  another  than 
those  which  are  apparently  related. 

I  would  not  advise  the  potato  breeder  to  use  too  much 
fertilizer  on  the  first-year  seedlings.  This  policy  is  followed 
by  some,  but  is  not  a  wise  plan.  The  potato  vines  generally 
grow  rank  and  scarcely  any  tubers  are  to  be  found.  Some 
breeders  use  food  material  to  induce  variation,  but  the  pota- 
to naturally  tends  to  vary  even  if  crosses  within  a  variety 


A  perfect  two-year  seedling 


BREEDING  23 

are  used.  However,  after  the  first  or  second  year  from  the 
seed,  large  vines  do  not  indicate  that  such  excessive  top 
growth  is  opposed  to  the  formation  of  tubers,  as  some  be- 
lieve. I  find  that  large  vines  make  large  tubers  and  a  great- 
er quantity.  But  if  a  so-called  "run  out"  or  "stray"  is 
found,  it  must  be  noted  that  the  vine  is  overgrown  and  very 
few  tubers  are  to  be  found. 

In  selecting  the  seedlings  from  year  to  year,  always 
choose  the  one  nearest  your  own  ideal  of  a  perfect  potato. 
Keeping  this  in  mind,  select  and  plant  for  eight  years;  or, 
if  planted  twice  a  year,  for  four  years.  By  this  time  your 
potato  will  have  reached  a  true-to-type  one. 

The  seedlings  must  be  grown  several  years  in  a  com- 
parison test ;  that  is  to  determine  the  best  type  before  a  def- 
inite selection  is  made.  The  discovery  of  a  way  in  which 
potatoes  are  bred  up  to  a  pure  strain  within  less  time  is  of 
great  advantage  to  the  potato  world. 

By  the  use  of  the  potato  cuttings  from  seedling  vines 
making  four  crops  in  one  season,  then  the  tubers  produced 
used  for  early  spring  and  fall  planting  for  the  next  two 
years,  the  development  would  be  shortened. 

In  comparing  and  selecting  the  seedlings  each  year  the 
qualities  to  be  kept  in  mind,  in  addition  to  productiveness 
and  uniformity  in  size  and  shape,  are : 

1st.  The  largest  seedling  should  be  selected  each  year. 
By  so  doing  the  potato  will  have  reached  its  highest  state 
of  development  within  a  shorter  period  or  will  be  a  larger 
potato  when  developed,  which  is  a  quality  the  people  of  Cal- 
ifornia want. 

2nd.  Select  those  that  are  hardiest,  consequently  less 
liable  to  disease.  The  vigorous  potatoes  are  more  drought  or 
disease  resistant,  and  by  the  selection  of  such  progeny  the 
breeder  is  always  assured  a  potato  of  good  quality  and  yield. 


24  BREEDING 

3rd.  Those  that  are  most  adapted  to  peculiarities  in 
climatic  and  soil  conditions. 

In  cutting  seedlings,  it  is  always  advisable  to  cut  and 
throw  away  the  blossom  end  of  the  potato ;  that  is,  the  bud- 
eye  cluster.  This  end,  when  planted,  is  more  liable  to  cause 
prongy  tubers,  although  the  tubers  produced  from  this  end 
are  more  disease  resistant. 

In  order  to  insure  a  good  development  during  the  first 
year  or  season's  planting  of  the  potato  seed,  it  is  advisable 
to  allow  the  seedling  a  long  growing  period.  They  require 
from  five  to  nine  months,  depending  on  all  conditions.  It  is 
well  to  plant  as  early  as  possible,  if  planted  in  the  field. 


SELECTION  AND  CARE  OF  THE  SEED  POTATO       25 


SELECTION  AND  CARE  OF  THE  SEED  POTATO. 


CHAPTER  II. 

|N  the  growing  of  a  profitable  crop  of  potatoes,  I 
would  say  that  the  first  important  factor  is  that 
of  good  seed.  The  next  of  importance  is  good 
soil.  Without  both  these  necessities,  a  good 
crop  of  potatoes  cannot  be  produced.  Good  seed  potatoes 
are  known  by  their  yield  and  quality  when  cared  for  proper- 
ly. Good  seed  will  produce  a  fairly  good  crop  in  poor  soil, 
but  poor  quality  seed  in  the  most  fertile  soil  will  not  give 
good  results. 

The  average  potato  grower  is  careless  in  that  he  allows 
his  seed  stock  to  become  mixed  with  other  varieties.  This 
is  decidedly  undesirable.  These  mixtures  are  generally  of 
a  poor  quality,  and  the  grower  should  look  to  discarding 
them,  as  well  as  the  diseased  ones.  This  demands,  or  should 
demand,  the  special  study  and  attention  of  the  grower. 
Study  and  learn  the  varieties,  and  discard  the  unproductive 
strains!  Again  I  would  emphasize  the  importance  of  un- 
mixed seed.  If  a  mixture  of  early  and  late  potatoes  were 
planted,  the  result  is,  naturally,  an  uneven  germination; 
and  scarcely  any  of  the  late  tubers  are  set  on  when  those  of 
the  early  varieties  are  ready  for  market.  The  great  loss  to 


26       SELECTION  AND  CARE  OF  THE  SEED  POTATO 

the  grower  can  be  readily  seen,  and  is  enough  within  itself 
to  pay  for  the  good  seed. 

The  majority  of  potato  growers  in  California  and  else- 
where use  "culls,"  or  inferior  seed.  Thus  doing,  they  invite 
an  unfavorable  quality  as  well  as  yield.  The  belief  that  is 
prevalent  throughout  the  country  that  the  average  culti- 
vated potato  shows  a  tendency  to  degenerate  or  "run  out" 
is  true.  It  is  quite  a  natural  result,  caused  from  lack  of 
knowledge  or  carelessness  in  the  selection  of  the  seed  po- 
tatoes. The  inferiors  are  used  year  after  year,  and  the  re- 
sultant crops  are  very  poor.  The  fact  that  like  produces 
like  is  essentially  true  in  the  potato  as  well  as  other  plant 
life.  If  the  best  of  seed  were  used,  planted  in  good  soil  and 
handled  properly,  this  tendency  of  degeneration  would  soon 
be  overcome,  and  better  prices  could  be  demanded  for  the 
better  grade  of  potatoes.  If  studied  closely  and  carefully, 
each  variety  may  be  found  to  have  unproductive  strains. 
These  potatoes  are  generally  curly  topped.  These  should 
always  be  discarded,  so  that  the  variety  grown  be  kept  to  its 
highest  standard  of  development. 

In  my  experience  I  have  learned  that  strong  plants  pro- 
duce many  times  the  number  of  good  tubers  than  the  weak 
plants,  and  in  some  cases  the  poor  seed  does  not  produce  any 
marketable  tubers  whatsoever.  Therefore,  I  would  say 
that  the  selection  of  seed  should  be  conducted  with  the 
greatest  of  care. 

Now  arises  the  question,  "What  is  good  seed?"  Too 
much  stress  cannot  be  laid  on  this  ever-important  and  in- 
teresting subject,  the  production  of  good  potatoes. 

1st.  The  tubers  used  for  seed  must  be  strong,  vigor- 
ous, and  productive. 

2nd.     Must  be  pure  and  unmixed. 


The  best  hill  of  seedlings  I  ever  produced,  being  eighteen 
smooth  potatoes,  and  not  an  ounce  difference  in  weight. 


SELECTION  AND  CARE  OF  THE  SEED  POTATO       29 

3rd.  Should  be  firm  and  with  the  sprouts  just  showing 
at  planting  time,  as  shown  on  page  33. 

4th.  Should  have  been  selected  at  digging  time.  This 
is  called  "Hill  Selection." 

5th.     Must  have  been  carefully  and  properly  handled. 

6th.     The  seed  should  not  be  too  ripe  or  mature. 

7th.  The  seed  should  not  show  any  disease  whatever, 
or  have  any  rotten  spots. 

8th.     The  seed  must  not  be  too  old  or  too  new. 

Potatoes  that  have  been  sprouted  two  or  three  times 
are  not  the  best  for  seed.  They  are  too  old.  Each  time 
they  are  sprouted  they  become  weaker.  When  they  are  at 
this  age,  the  sprouts,  if  there  are  any,  are  weak  and  thread- 
like. If  such  potatoes  are  planted,  they  will  not  grow,  as 
they  are  too  delicate  to  send  out  a  top.  If  they  do  happen 
to  grow,  there  will  be  small,  pea-like  tubers  form  just  in  or 
outside  of  the  eyes.  The  seed  piece  may  be  firm,  but  be- 
cause of  the  age  it  will  not  reproduce.  The  nature  of  the 
potato  is  to  reproduce,  so  if  it  cannot  send  up  a  top,  the 
small  tubers  will  form  in  the  eyes  of  the  old  potato.  If 
these  old  tubers  are  opened,  it  will  be  noted  that  they  are 
hollow  or  are  water-soaked,  and  the  quality  very  poor. 
Page  37  shows  such  a  potato  that  had  been  planted  for 
three  weeks. 

The  newer  seed,  that  with  the  first  sprouts  just  show- 
ing, comes  up  more  readily  and  possesses  greater  vitality 
than  older  seed.  That  is  one  of  the  serious  faults  of  the 
growers  in  some  districts  of  California.  They  use  seed  that 
is  old  and  has  sprouted  badly.  The  sprouts  are  sometimes 
several  inches  long  before  the  potatoes  are  planted,  conse- 
quently the  potatoes  have  not  the  strength  left  in  them  to 
make  a  good  crop.  Those  plants  that  do  come  up  are  weak, 
therefore  more  subject  to  disease.  In  some  experiments  I 


30       SELECTION  AND  CARE  OF  THE  SEED  POTATO 

have  tested  new  potatoes  with  the  sprouts  just  showing, 
and  old  ones  that  had  been  sprouted  in  soil  infected  with 
jelly-end  and  rot.  The  tubers  from  the  new  seed  did  not 
show  a  sign  of  the  disease,  while  those  of  the  old  seed  were 
badly  infected.  The  new  seed  is  more  liable  to  be  prongy 
or  knotty,  but  this  can  be  overcome  by  cutting  away  the 
blossom  end. 

Another  serious  fault  of  some  potato  growers  is  to 
leave  culls  lying  on  the  ground  from  year  to  year.  The 
weaker  hills  are  always  more  liable  to  disease  and  always 
produce  small  tubers.  If  these  small  tubers  or  culls  are  left 
on  the  ground,  the  new  crops  and  the  land  is  bound  to  be- 
come infected  with  the  disease ;  and  if  this  way  of  handling 
the  crop  is  continued,  the  disease  will  increase  with  great 
rapidity  and  soon  no  crop  can  be  raised. 

I  have  noticed  in  a  volunteer  hill  of  potatoes,  where  they 
have  lain  on  the  ground  over  winter,  that  the  center  eye  in 
the  bud  or  blossom  end  is  always  the  first  one  to  sprout.  It 
is  this  eye  that  produces  the  crop  resulting  in  prongy  tubers, 
and  I  maintain  that  this  center  eye  in  the  blossom  end  is  the 
eye  that  finally  causes  the  "running  out"  of  the  potato,  al- 
though it  is  the  strongest  eye  and  is  the  first  to  come  up 
when  planted.  The  grower  should  not,  therefore,  under 
any  circumstance,  allow  culls  to  lay  on  the  soil  where  the 
same  crop  is  to  be  grown  the  following  year.  These  culls 
cause  the  degeneration  of  the  potato,  breed  diseases  and 
tuber  moth.  If,  instead,  these  culls  were  used  for  stock 
feed,  either  in  the  raw  state  or  cooked,  they  would  more 
than  pay  for  the  trouble,  and  the  following  crop  would  be 
greatly  improved. 

I  have  learned  that  it  is  wise  to  change  the  soils  used 
for  potatoes  from  year  to  year.  If  they  are  planted  in  peat- 
land  one  year,  the  seed  produced  should  be  planted  in  a 


SELECTION  AND  CARE  OF  THE  SEED  POTATO       31 

lighter,  but  not  too  light,  loam  the  following  year.  The 
stand  and  yield  is  always  increased.  This  is  a  practice  not 
known  to  most  potato  growers. 

The  year  1916  I  had  a  98%  stand,  and  a  yield  at  the 
rate  of  four  hundred  sacks  per  acre.  This  land  has  been  in 
potatoes  every  year  for  twenty-three  years.  I  attribute 
this  to  the  selection  of  good  seed,  planted  at  the  proper  time 
and  well  cared  for.  The  field  picture  is  shown  on  page  41. 
We  would  naturally  conclude,  then,  that  the  value  of  good 
seed  cannot  be  overestimated.  As  much  cultivation  is  put 
into  a  50%  stand  as  a  98%  stand,  and  almost  the  same  ex- 
penditures would  produce  a  98%  to  99%  crop.  The  gain  in 
the  resulting  crop  from  the  use  of  good  seed  would  be  sur- 
prising. While  the  50%  stand  would  hardly  pay  expenses, 
with  an  80  to  85%  stand  the  grower  would  realize  a  good 
net  profit.  When  potatoes  are  a  good  price,  a  great  number 
of  farmers  buy  any  seed  just  so  it  is  cheap,  plant  it,  and  ex- 
pect a  good  crop.  Instead,  the  results  are  poor  and  a  very 
inferior  quality  of  potatoes  are  produced — thus  the  loss  of 
time  and  money.  They  find  that  they  cannot  obtain  a  good 
price  for  such  quality  of  potatoes,  so  sell  them  at  a  very  low 
price  to  get  rid  of  them.  This  floods  the  market  with  poor 
quality  potatoes,  consequently  the  conscientious  grower 
will  lose  indirectly  to  a  certain  degree.  Then  the  inexperi- 
enced farmer  decides  there  is  nothing  in  it,  so  stops  growing 
them  until  the  price  is  high  again,  when  he  begins  again  en- 
thusiastically with  the  same  method  of  poor  seed,  and  nat- 
urally produces  the  same  results. 

The  man  who  makes  a  success  in  potato-growing,  as  in 
any  other  business  or  profession,  is  the  one  who  has  the 
stick-to-it-iveness.  He  is  the  one  who  will  get  the  best  of 
seed,  no  matter  what  the  first  cost  is,  and  will  always  pro- 
duce good  potatoes.  He  will  get  the  best  price  for  them, 


32       SELECTION  AND  CARE  OF  THE  SEED  POTATO 

because  such  potatoes  are  very  scarce.  In  fact,  it  is  a  hard 
matter  to  find  them.  That  is  the  reason  I  advocate  so 
strongly  the  use  of  good  seed. 

You  may  ask,  "How  will  we  tell  good  seed  ?"  By  look- 
ing at  them  it  may  be  ascertained  whether  or  not  they  are 
sound,  firm,  or  diseased  to  a  certain  extent.  But  whether 
or  not  the  seed  will  produce  a  good  crop  cannot  be  deter- 
mined. The  only  way,  then,  is  to  try  several  varieties  in 
your  particular  soil.  By  hill  selection  year  after  year  of 
the  best  (that  is,  the  most  productive  and  of  the  best  quali- 
ty), your  potatoes  may  be  brought  up  to  a  high  standard  of 
development.  But  if  the  growers  cannot  take  this  time  to 
learn  the  best,  it  is  always  advisable  to  buy  of  some  recog- 
nized seed  potato  grower,  or  a  reliable  seed  firm. 

I  have  some  potatoes  that  cannot  be  surpassed  for  peat 
land  or  damp,  heavy  soil,  although  when  planted  in  the  peat 
land  they  would  not  sell  for  marketable  potatoes,  as  they 
are  too  large,  rough,  and  deep-eyed.  This  same  potato, 
when  planted  on  other  loamy  soil,  makes  the  largest  yield  of 
any  I  have  ever  tested.  They  are  of  a  good  size  and  exceed- 
ingly good  for  market.  It  is  quite  a  remarkable  fact,  the 
difference  in  size  and  shape  in  a  variety  of  potatoes  grown 
in  different  soils.  Those  grown  on  weaker,  light  soils  are 
likely  to  be  more  smooth  and  uniform,  as  far  as  looks  are 
concerned.  When  seed  quality  and  vitality  are  considered, 
the  tubers  that  are  grown  on  the  rich  soils  are  far  superior, 
though  they  be  rough,  deep-eyed,  and  ill-shaped.  This  po- 
tato, if  changed  to  a  lighter  loam,  will  come  out  smooth  and 
large ;  also  the  yield  will  be  greatly  increased.  Inheritance 
plays  an  important  part  in  the  size  and  shape  of  the  tuber, 
yet  to  a  great  extent  these  factors  are  determined  by  the 
kind  of  soil,  fertilizer,  and  care  given  the  crop. 

There  is  an  increasing  demand  for  fancy  table  stock, 


A  good  seed  potato,  in  proper  condition  to  plant. 


SELECTION  AND  CARE  OF  THE  SEED  POTATO        35 

and  if  the  use  of  good  seed  were  persisted  in,  the  grower 
would  be  paid  the  higher  price  for  the  better  quality  pota- 
toes, and  consequently  the  subject  of  "Improvement  of  the 
seed  potato"  hence  "The  development  of  high  grade  mar- 
ketable tubers"  is  receiving  more  attention  than  heretofore. 

The  successful  grower  gives  his  most  careful  attention 
to  the  source  of  his  seed  supply.  He  either  becomes  an  ex- 
pert himself  in  the  growing  of  the  crop  or  buys  of  some  rec- 
ognized seed  potato  grower  or  seed  firm.  As  a  result  his 
average  yields  are  enormous  in  comparison  to  the  one  who 
is  careless  in  his  seed  selection. 

The  development  of  the  best  grade  seed  potatoes  is  not 
a  perplexing  problem;  however,  great  care,  attention,  good 
judgment,  and  correct  methods  must  be  persisted  in  year 
after  year.  If  the  grower  has  not  the  time  to  develop  his 
own  seed  into  the  best  grade — seed  of  the  best  quality  and 
highest  productiveness — he  must,  for  several  reasons,  buy 
his  seed  from  a  recognized  seed  potato  grower — one  who 
makes  a  specialty  of  growing  varieties  of  a  pure,  strong, 
and  vigorous  type.  It  is  preferable  to  buy  of  one  whose 
seed  potatoes  are  grown  on  rich  soil,  as  this  seed  is  more 
vigorous  and  will  be  more  disease-resistant.  Thus  he  will 
obtain  better  results  from  the  seed  grown  in  this  soil  than 
that  grown  in  lighter  soils.  Never  obtain  seed  from  a  seeds- 
man whose  stock  is  not  free  from  mixtures  with  other  vari- 
eties. To  insure  the  maintenance  of  their  strength  and  vi- 
tality the  seed  must  be  kept  pure.  The  grower's  average 
yield  of  marketable  potatoes  should  be  from  two  to  four  hun- 
dred sacks  per  acre.  This  insures  the  buyer  the  best  of 
seed. 

Considerable  dependence  can  be  placed  upon  the  appear- 
ance of  the  tops  in  hill  selection.  The  vine  with  one  hardy 
stem  is  always  better  than  two  or  three  weaker  ones.  When 


36      SELECTION  AND  CARE  OF  THE  SEED  POTATO 

once  learned,  the  tops  will  tell  about  the  yield  to  expect,  the 
size  of  the  tubers,  the  number,  and  where  they  lay  can  be 
easily  determined.  When  the  grower  is  able  to  do  this,  he 
may  figure  very  closely  the  yield  per  acre,  what  proportion 
will  be  of  marketable  size,  and  the  proportion  of  culls.  The 
tops  of  the  potatoes  will  vary  in  different  soils  and  varie- 
ties. Some  will  be  different  in  color  and  the  leaves  shaped 
differently.  Where  the  soil  is  extraordinarily  rich,  it  will 
be  noticed  that  the  hills  with  two  or  three  stalks  have  bet- 
ter marketable  potatoes  than  those  with  one  stalk.  Where 
the  soil  is  so  rich,  in  a  hill  with  just  one  stalk,  the  tubers 
will  be  too  large  for  market.  If  the  soil  is  weak  and  light, 
it  will  be  noted  that  the  large  top  with  one  sturdy  stem  pro- 
duces a  better  size  than  those  with  more. 

To  those  who  care  to  grow  their  own  seed  to  improve 
them,  thus  raising  their  potatoes  to  a  high  standard  of  de- 
velopment, I  advise  to  carefully  select  them  at  digging  time. 
This  is  called  "hill  selection."  These  potatoes  should  be 
carefully  dug  by  hand,  avoiding  cuts  and  bruises.  Each 
man  should  use  two  cans,  one  for  select  tubers  of  uniform 
size  and  shape  for  seed,  the  other  for  marketable  tubers. 
Each  hill  should  be  dug  separately.  If  in  a  hill  of  potatoes 
one  be  rough,  or  in  any  way  defective,  this  hill  should  not 
be  used  for  seed. 

The  development  of  the  potato  to  its  highest  standard 
has  proven  as  interesting  to  me  as  the  fascinating  study  of 
the  propagation  of  new  varieties.  In  my  hill  selection  I 
have  taken  particular  care  in  selecting  only  hills  with  an 
average  of  eleven  or  more  uniform  tubers.  This  eliminates 
all  unproductive  plants.  In  continuing  this  line  of  work  an 
excellent  strain  of  potatoes  is  always  secured.  The  best 
potato  growers  always  place  emphasis  upon  keeping  the  po- 
tato true  to  type.  If  we  want  the  best  we  must  of  necessity 


The  results  of  planting  a  potato  when  too  old.    This  po- 
tato was  dug  after  being  in  the  ground  for  three  weeks. 


SELECTION  AND  CARE  OF  THE  SEED  POTATO       39 

plant  the  best.  The  best  strains  always  produce  the  best  in 
plant  life  as  well  as  in  animal  life. 

To  the  growers  of  California,  I  cannot  too  strongly  em- 
phasize the  necessity  of  pure,  vigorous  seed.  They  are 
largely  exempt  from  disease ;  and  if  the  soil  is  infected  with 
disease,  fertilise  and  plant  to  different  crops  that  do  not 
breed  these  diseases  until  the  soil  is  rid  of  it.  When  pota- 
toes are  grown  again,  be  careful  to  select  only  the  best  of 
seed,  and,  with  the  care  of  the  crop  I  advocate,  the  yields 
will  be  wonderfully  increased. 

In  handling  the  crop  the  tubers  should  not  be  moved 
too  often;  however,  they  should  not  be  left  in  piles  on  the 
field  to  sprout  and  lose  their  strength. 

Potatoes  for  seed  should  always  be  "greened"  when 
using  early  spring  seed  for  fall  planting.  Greening  is  to 
cause  them  to  sprout  under  certain  conditions  before  plant- 
ing. In  other  words,  they  are  put  into  proper  shape  to  grow. 

The  seed  produced  from  the  April  planting  for  planting 
in  April  of  the  following  year  becomes  a  little  old  before  the 
time  to  plant,  and  it  is  a  difficult  problem  to  stay  their 
growth  and  preserve  their  strength.  They  are  stored  in  a 
cool  place  until  the  cold  weather  in  the  fall  appears.  Then 
they  are  put  into  a  dry  place  before  the  rainy  season  comes, 
and  when  the  first  sprouts  begin  to  show  they  are  put  out  to 
green  and  are  left  in  that  condition  until  planting  time.  The 
sprouts  are  generally  from  one-half  to  one  inch  long  at  this 
time,  and  are  always  planted  with  these  sprouts  on.  The 
sprouts  become  tough,  and  are  hard  to  remove.  This  seed, 
when  properly  handled,  always  insures  a  crop  about  two 
weeks  earlier. 

The  importance  of  greening  is  twofold : 

1st.  If  allowed  to  grow  or  sprout  too  readily  before 
planting,  too  much  strength  is  taken  from  the  potato,  caus- 


40        SELECTION  AND  CARE  OF  THE  SEED  POTATO 

ing  it  to  shrink.  Therefore,  the  plants  are  stronger,  are 
healthier,  and  more  vigorous  if  greened,  and  an  increase  of 
yield  is  the  result.  The  average  increase  in  yield  of  green- 
ed over  ungreened  seed  is,  in  most  instances,  about  twenty- 
five  per  cent. 

2nd.  The  tubers,  when  planted,  mature  in  a  much 
shorter  period  when  greened,  and  can  reach  the  market 
much  earlier.  Since  it  takes  a  shorter  period  to  mature, 
the  potatoes  do  not  have  as  much  chance  to  take  in  disease 
as  when  left  in  the  soil  longer.  Again,  if  the  seed  is  kept 
in  trays  and  greened,  they  will  keep  longer  for  seed  pur- 
poses than  if  kept  in  bins,  sacks,  or  piles. 

In  greening,  the  potatoes  should  be  placed  not  more 
than  two  or  three  inches  deep,  and  arranged  so  that  plenty 
of  air  and  light  can  reach  all  tubers.  They  should  be  kept 
in  a  cool,  dry,  shady  place.  An  open  barn  or  shed  is  gener- 
ally used.  Seed  potatoes  should  always  be  kept  in  moder- 
ate temperature.  Some  farmers'  ideas  of  greening  their 
seed  are  very  poor.  Their  idea  of  greening  is  by  the  sun, 
never  once  thinking  that  the  extreme  heat  is  as  injurious 
as  frost.  The  tender  potatoes  just  taken  from  the  soil  will 
stand  but  little  heat  in  the  sun.  It  is  essential  that  they  be 
kept  in  the  shade. 

In  conclusion  of  this  chapter,  "Selection  and  Care  of 
the  Seed  Potato,"  I  would  again  emphasize  the  necessity  of 
good  seed,  for  good  seed  is  far  cheaper  than  poor  seed. 

1st.  Remember  that  marketable  potatoes  can  be  pro- 
duced on  poor  soil  with  good  seed  much  more  easily  than 
poor  seed  grown  on  good  soil. 

2nd.  Good  seed  may  be  obtained  by  a  thorough  and 
careful  "hill  selection." 

3rd.  All  tubers  showing  any  disease  or  rot  should  be 
rejected. 


5!  -I 


ag 


Q.  O 
fl)  Q. 
3  C 
r*  O 


SELECTION  AND  CARE  OF  THE  SEED  POTATO        43 

4th.     Select  pure  and  unmixed  seed. 

5th.     Weak  seed  produces  weak  plants. 

6th.     Greening  is  essential  in  most  cases. 

7th.  In  unselected  seed  stock  the  greater  per  cent  are 
weak  and  diseased,  therefore  unproductive. 

8th.  Beware  of  the  dealer  who  thinks  more  of  the 
price  than  of  the  quality  of  his  seed,  or  one  who  through 
carelessness  and  inexperience  does  not  keep  his  seed  un- 
mixed and  vigorous. 


CUTTING  AND  PREPARING  THE  SEED  TO  PLANT  45 


CUTTING  AND  PREPARING  THE  SEED  TO  PLANT 


CHAPTER  III. 

FTER  the  seed  potatoes  have  been  greened 
(when  greening  is  needed),  they  are  cut,  limed 
and  allowed  plenty  time  to  heal  over  before 
planting.  The  potato  should  be  cut,  first, 
lengthwise  through  the  bud-eye  cluster  or  blossom  end,  and 
then  crosswise,  depending  upon  the  size  of  potatoes  used. 
Each  seed  piece  should  weigh  not  less  than  two  ounces. 
However,  the  piece  at  the  stem-end  should  be  larger,  as 
this  end  of  the  potato  is  weaker  and  therefore  more  subject 
to  disease  than  the  bud-eye  end.  It  is  essential  that  they  be 
of  good  size,  as  each  seed  piece  must  have  strength  enough 
to  support  a  sprout,  or  sprouts  (as  the  case  may  be),  until 
the  feed  roots  are  able  to  support  them.  The  sprouts  take 
all  the  strength  from  the  seed  piece  until  the  feed  roots  are 
long  enough,  when  the  little  "pumps"  on  the  end  of  the 
roots  start  working  and  drawing  up  the  plant  food  by  ca- 
pillary attraction  from  the  soil.  Therefore  we  would  rea- 
sonably conclude  the  advantage  of  using  a  large  seed  piece. 
If  it  is  not  large  enough  the  sprout  will  be  stunted  and  the 
crop  likewise  will  be  lessened.  There  should  be  one  or  more, 
and  not  over  three,  good  eyes  in  each  piece,  and  the  eye  or 


46      CUTTING  AND  PREPARING  THE  SEED  TO  PLANT 

eyes  should  be  as  near  the  center  as  possible.  Do  not  cu1 
too  close  to  the  eye. 

Some  potato  growers,  particularly  in  the  Eastern 
states,  cut  out  only  the  eyes  and  use  them  in  planting.  This 
has  been  tried  and  will  not  do  in  California.  As  I  have  ex- 
plained, the  seed  piece  must  of  necessity  have  the  strength 
to  force  the  sprout,  thus  increasing  the  yield.  Those  whc 
practice  using  the  eye  alone  for  planting  would  get  much 
better  results  if,  instead,  they  would  use  a  large  seed  piece 

Some  times  when  seed  potatoes  are  high  and  scarce 
the  grower  will  cut  the  seed  into  very  small  pieces,  making 
his  seed  go  farther.  It  does,  it  is  true,  plant  a  larger  area 
but  when  the  yield  is  taken  into  account,  he  will  surely  see 
his  mistake.  This  is  a  common  error,  and  is,  indeed,  a  seri- 
ous one.  The  grower  tries  to  be  economical  by  cutting  his 
seed  into  small  pieces.  The  lack  of  results  from  the  use  oj 
small  pieces  would  more  than  justify  the  use  of  large  pieces 
The  fact  that  the  smaller  pieces  will  plant  more  ground  wil 
also  make  the  grower  more  work  and  will  not  produce  anj 
more  tubers  than  the  smaller  plot  of  ground  and  largei 
pieces.  Again,  the  piece  is  liable  to  decay  before  the  feec 
roots  appear. 

The  discussion  of  the  size  of  seed  pieces  brings  up  the 
subject  of  the  quantity  of  seed  to  use  per  acre.  This  de- 
pends upon  the  manner  in  which  the  seed  is  planted,  the  dis- 
tance of  the  hills  and  the  rows,  and  the  size  of  the  seed 
piece;  also  if  whole  or  cut.  I  generally  use  from  six  tc 
seven  hundred  pounds  per  acre  in  ordinary  soil,  but  in  ricli 
soil  not  less  than  one  thousand  to  fourteen  hundred  pounds 
per  acre.  This,  however,  cannot  be  definitely  stated.  More 
seed  is  used  in  rich  soil  because  the  seed  piece  must  be 
larger  and  each  piece  have  more  sprouts.  If  there  is  jusl 
one  sprout  the  new  tubers  will  be  too  large.  One  sprout  will 


CUTTING  AND  PREPARING  THE  SEED  TO  PLANT      47 

make  one  sturdy  stem.  Such  hills  are  usually  found  to  have 
less  but  better  tubers  under  it  than  a  hill  with  several  weak 
ones,  when  planted  in  ordinary  soil.  The  grower  should  be 
thoroughly  acquainted  with  his  soil,  he  should  know  the 
quality  of  seed,  and  the  condition  his  soil  is  in  before  plant- 
ing. Then  he  may  know  about  the  quantity  to  use. 

If  there  are,  by  chance,  any  potatoes  in  your  seed  stock 
showing  decay,  cut  and  throw  that  part  away.  The  decay 
or  disease  generally  shows  in  the  stem  end  first.  If  there 
are  any  yellow  or  black  streaks,  cut  that  part  away,  too,  as 
it  is  disease.  If  the  yellow  streaks  reach  through  the  po- 
tato, it  will  not  do  for  seed ;  but  if  only  part  of  it  is  infected, 
that  part  which  is  good  may  be  used  for  seed.  Again,  you 
may  find  in  your  seed  stock  some  potatoes  that  have  been 
sprouted  once  or  twice.  These  are  too  old  to  plant,  and 
should  be  cast  aside  as  inferior.  Any  disease  that  is  left  in 
the  seed  piece  will  inoculate  the  new  crop  of  potatoes.  As 
the  strength  goes  out  of  the  old  potatoes  into  the  sprouts 
and  thence  into  the  new  tubers,  so  will  the  disease. 

The  grower  should  cut  and  lime  the  potatoes  to  be  used 
for  seed  several  days  before  planting.  If  the  seed  is  new 
and  not  sprouting,  it  should  be  cut  and  limed  from  eight  to 
ten  days  before  planting.  If  the  seed  is  a  little  old,  it  should 
be  cut  about  five  days  before  planting,  to  keep  it  from  losing 
its  strength.  Seed  when  cut  and  limed  always  proves  to 
produce  much  more  than  when  unlimed.  The  use  of  lime 
on  seed  potatoes  serves  well  several  purposes: 

1st.  It  prevents,  to  a  certain  extent,  bugs  and  worms 
eating  the  potato. 

2nd.     Lime  within  itself  is  a  fertilizer. 

3rd.  The  seed  that  is  limed  is  less  liable  to  disease,  as 
it  prevents  disease  germs  entering  the  tubers.  Disease 
germs  never  enter  the  potato  unless  the  skin  is  broken  or 


48      CUTTING  AND  PREPARING  THE  SEED  TO  PLANT 

cut  without  being  healed  over  with  lime.  Therefore,  i: 
well  covered  with  lime,  the  potato  will  be  protected  fron 
disease  germs  to  a  certain  degree. 

4th.  Lime  acts  as  a  preservative.  The  seed  pieces  wil 
keep  longer  when  planted  with  lime  than  without  it. 

5th.  When  cut  potatoes  are  limed,  a  thick  covering  o: 
new  skin  is  made  on  the  cut  surface,  and  is  stronger  thai 
the  old  skin.  This  keeps  the  seed  from  losing  its  strength 

6th.     The  expense  is  very  small  and  no  time  is  wasted 

Many  growers  believe  that  lime  is  a  detriment  to  thi 
growing  of  potatoes,  but  I  am  decidedly  in  favor  of  its  use. 

I  have  tested  growing  potatoes  with  and  without  liming 
when  there  are  hard,  black  streaks  reaching  through  th< 
potato,  this  being  the  first  stage  of  decay.  I  have  taken  tei 
potatoes,  cut  each  into  four  equal  parts,  and  planted  withou 
lime,  and  ten  with  lime.  Out  of  the  ten  tested  without  lime 
three  came  up  before  the  pieces  decayed,  and  the  other  sevei 
decayed  away  before  the  sprouts  came  through.  Out  of  th< 
ten  tested  with  lime,  eight  came  up  and  looked  a  great  dea 
hardier  than  the  three  without  lime.  This,  I  think,  shoul< 
prove  the  value  of  lime  in  the  growing  of  a  profitable  crop  o 
potatoes. 

It  is  always  advisable  to  procure  the  lime  to  be  used  sev 
eral  days  or  weeks  before  cutting  and  planting  time,  and  ai 
slake  it.  Since  the  starch  in  the  potatoes  absorb  the  lime 
the  cut  tubers  will  be  burned  if  the  lime  is  too  new ;  that  is 
if  not  well  air  slaked. 

In  slaking  the  lime,  I  always  spread  it  out  in  thin  layer; 
so  it  will  be  exposed  to  the  air.  Several  weeks*  time  is  need 
ed  to  slake  it  well  before  using.  However,  the  time  depend] 
greatly  upon  the  weather  conditions.  The  test  in  determin 
ing  whether  or  not  it  is  well  air  slaked  is  to  pour  a  littli 


CUTTING  AND  PREPARING  THE  SEED  TO  PLANT  49 

water  upon  a  small  quantity  of  the  lime.  If  there  is  any 
heat  whatever,  the  lime  is  not  well  slaked. 

Most  potato  growers,  in  the  handling  of  their  crops,  use 
kerosene  oil  cans.  The  tops  are  taken  out,  the  edges  ham- 
mered down  so  the  potatoes  will  not  be  cut  or  bruised,  and  a 
handle  is  easily  fitted  in  at  the  top.  These  make  a  very 
handy  can  in  the  handling  of  potatoes.  I  use  them  alto- 
gether. 

In  cutting  the  seed  potatoes,  have  ready  a  pan  of  air 
slaked  lime,  and  a  paddle  that  will  hold  about  two  or  three 
tablespoons  of  lime.  Cut  about  one-half  of  a  can  of  potatoes 
and  then  sprinkle  a  paddle  of  lime  over  them,  shaking  the 
can  at  the  same  time.  This  distributes  the  lime  well  over 
the  seed.  That  which  does  not  stick  to  the  potatoes  will 
drop  to  the  bottom  of  the  can.  When  the  can  is  full, 
sprinkle  another  paddle  of  lime  and  shake  as  before.  When 
the  cans  of  cut  seed  are  emptied  into  the  sacks,  the  lime  that 
has  fallen  to  the  bottom  of  the  cans  will  reach  all  sides  of 
the  seed. 

After  the  seed  has  been  cut  and  limed,  they  are  put  into 
sacks  partially  full.  The  sacks  should  not  be  piled  or  the 
cut  seed  bruised  in  any  way.  Let  them  stand  with  an  air 
space  between  the  sacks  of  about  three  or  four  inches,  so 
that  fresh  air  might  circulate  around  and  through  them. 
Always  keep  them  in  a  cool,  shady  place. 

When  seed  potatoes  have  been  harvested  in  September 
and  October,  and  are  to  be  planted  in  December  or  January 
or  February,  the  seed  must  be  cut  two  weeks  before  plant- 
ing. If,  however,  this  same  seed  is  not  planted  until  March, 
they  should  not  be  cut  over  two  or  three  days  before  plant- 
ing. Such  seed  would  be  considered  old.  They  do  not  have 
the  vitality  at  that  time  and  would  lose  considerable  strength 
if  kept  longer.  When  the  seed  that  has  been  harvested  in 


50  CUTTING  AND  PREPARING  THE  SEED  TO  PLANT 

November  or  December  is  planted  in  March  or  April,  it 
should  be  cut  about  two  weeks  before  planting.  For  good 
seed  for  the  July  planting,  the  seed  to  be  used  should  have 
been  harvested  by  the  first  of  May,  placed  upon  shallow 
trays  and  greened.  Potatoes  at  all  times  should  be  kept  in 
a  cool,  shady  place.  In  my  experience  with  the  July  and 
August  planting  I  have  learned  that  potatoes  cut  and  limed 
from  three  to  four  weeks  before  planting  come  up  more 
evenly. 

Every  grower  should  know  his  own  soil.  When  plant- 
ing in  soil  that  is  extraordinarily  rich,  the  seed  pieces  should 
have  more  sprouts  than  when  planted  in  lighter  soil.  But 
in  soil  that  is  not  overly  rich,  the  seed  pieces  should  have 
but  one  sprout.  In  other  words,  the  plant  food  which  is 
lacking  in  the  soil  is  made  up  in  the  strength  of  the  seed 
piece,  or  visa  versa.  One  sprout  from  a  seed  piece  will  pro- 
duce as  much  in  weight  as  three  or  four  sprouts  in  the  same 
soil  and  under  the  same  conditions.  However,  the  hills 
with  more  sprouts  produce  more  in  number,  but  the  tubers 
are  smaller  than  those  produced  from  one  sprout.  For  in- 
stance, if  one  potato  when  planted  in  rather  light  soil  pro- 
duces three  sprouts,  the  tubers  produced  would  be  small, 
but  if  planted  in  rich  soil  the  tubers  would  be  a  good 
size.  But  if  in  the  same  soil  a  potato  is  planted  which  has 
but  one  sprout,  the  tubers  produced  would  be  large,  and 
if  planted  in  rich  soil  the  tubers  produced  would  be  too  large. 
The  fact  that  each  hill  has  a  certain  number  of  square  inch- 
es to  draw  its  plant  food  from,  makes  it  clear  that  the  more 
tubers  in  each  hill  the  less  weight  in  each  tuber  there  will 
be.  The  one  tuber  produced  will  weigh  as  much  as  the  three 
smaller  ones  if  planted  in  the  same  soil.  In  using  new  seed 
to  plant,  when  the  first  sprouts  are  just  showing,  with  a 
good-sized  seed  piece  and  planted  in  ordinary  soil,  just  one 


CUTTING  AND  PREPARING  THE  SEED  TO  PLANT     51 

sprout  will  be  produced.  In  such  new  seed  generally  just 
one  sprout  appears ;  but  if  aged,  and  under  certain  climatical 
conditions,  all  eyes  will  sprout,  and  two  or  three  stalks  may 
grow  from  each  eye. 

There  are  several  reasons  why  whole  seed  is  not  used 
extensively  in  California:  1st.  Because  the  small  whole 
tubers  used  are  generally  "culls ;"  consequently  an  inferior 
crop  is  produced.  Large  pieces  cut  from  large  potatoes 
yield  more.  2nd.  The  cost  is  greater,  and  more  seed  pota- 
toes are  required,  and  does  not  increase  the  yield  sufficiently 
to  justify  its  use,  unless  the  soil  is  extraordinarily  rich. 
However,  if  whole  tubers  are  grown  especially  for  seed  pur- 
poses, planted  closely  so  they  do  not  become  too  large,  they 
are  satisfactory,  and  are  much  better  than  the  small  tubers 
taken  from  the  field. 

In  European  countries,  whole  seed,  greened  and  sprout- 
ed, is  used  extensively,  and  such  seed  makes  a  crop  from  two 
to  three  weeks  earlier. 

Cut  seed  potatoes  are  generally  advisable  in  California, 
although  whole  seed  is  advisable  at  times.  Its  use  is  grow- 
ing more  popular  than  heretofore. 

The  soil  must  be  extraordinarily  rich,  or  the  seed  new, 
so  that  just  one  or  two  sprouts  are  produced.  Whole  seed 
must  never  be  too  old.  If  the  seed  is  too  old,  too  many 
sprouts  will  come  from  one  hill,  making  the  tubers  unmarket- 
able. Whole  tubers  must  always  be  very  new  to  produce  one 
sprout  in  light  soil. 

The  use  of  small  whole  tubers  from  the  field  is  not  ad- 
visable, because  it  is  generally  the  diseased  plants  that  pro- 
duce small  tubers,  and  a  very  unsatisfactory  yield  and  qual- 
ity would  result.  However,  when  whole  tubers  are  used, 
they  should  be  from  seed  that  had  been  planted  closely  es- 


52  CUTTING  AND  PREPARING  THE  SEED  TO  PLANT 

pecially  for  seed  purposes,  and  the  tubers  dug  while  imma- 
ture. 

In  conclusion  of  this  chapter  on  "Cutting  and  Preparing 
Seed  to  Plant,"  I  would  impress  on  the  grower's  mind  these 
facts : 

1st.  Always  use  good-sized  seed  pieces  in  planting. 
The  stand  and  yield  of  the  resultant  crop  from  the  use  of 
such  pieces  will  be  very  favorable. 

2nd.  Always  lime  with  well  air  slaked  lime,  when  cut- 
ting. Through  the  use  of  lime  the  crop  will  be  less  liable  to 
disease.  Lime  is  a  fertilizer,  acts  as  a  preservative,  and 
will  partially  protect  the  seed  from  being  eaten  by  insects. 

3rd.     Always  keep  the  seed  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

4th.  It  is  well  to  cut  the  seed  pieces  at  the  stem  end 
of  the  potato  larger  than  the  other  pieces.  The  strongest 
eyes  are  on  the  blossom  end  and  each  eye  nearer  the  stem 
is  weaker. 


A  cutting  ready  for  planting.  The  use  of  cuttings  is 
not  profitable,  unless  the  grower  has  only  a  few  hills 
and  wishes  to  increase  the  amount  of  tubers  for  the 
following  crop,  as  four  crops  can  be  grown  in  one  year. 
The  line  shows  the  depth  to  plant. 


PREPARING  TO  PLANT  AND  PLANTING  55 


PREPARING  TO  PLANT  AND  PLANTING. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


|  T  is  of  the  utmost  importance  in  the  growing  of  a 
profitable  crop  of  potatoes  to  cultivate  deeply  as 
well  as  thoroughly.  The  soil  should  be  well  fertil- 
ized with  both  the  dry  manure  and  a  green  crop, 
if  lacking  in  humus.  This  green  crop  or  mulch  should  be 
sown,  preferably,  in  the  fall  of  the  year  preceding  the 
planting.  By  so  doing  the  green  crop  will  have  reached  the 
desired  height  by  the  time  of  the  early  spring  planting.  As 
soon  as  this  crop  is  ready,  plow  under  and  prepare  the  soil 
thoroughly  by  the  use  of  a  harrow,  if  the  soil  has  a  tendency 
to  bake  or  crust.  This  working  will  make  the  soil  fine,  mel- 
low, and  moist,  an  ideal  condition  for  a  crop  of  potatoes.  In 
any  soil  it  is  well  to  plow  the  ground  quite  deeply,  but  do 
not  turn  up  too  much  subsoil  at  one  time.  It  is  well  not  to 
plow  more  than  two  inches  deeper  than  was  plowed  the  year 
preceding,  thus  deepening  the  soil  gradually  until  the  de- 
sired depth  has  been  attained.  From  seven  to  nine  inches 
is  a  good  depth  to  plow  for  potatoes. 


56  PREPARING  TO  PLANT  AND  PLANTING 

The  fertilizers  used  for  the  production  of  potatoes  are 
dry  barnyard  manure,  green  manures,  and  commercial  fer- 
tilizers. I  have  tested  out  several  commercial  fertilizers 
but  without  good  results.  However,  the  best  fertilizers, 
those  containing  about  3  or  4%  of  nitrogen,  6  to  8%  of 
phosphoric  acid,  and  8  or  10%  of  potash,  give  good  results — 
one  thousand  pounds  or  more  being  used  if  spread  broad- 
cast, but  if  drilled  along  the  rows,  less  than  that  amount  is 
used.  It  should  be  mixed  with  the  soil  to  prevent  it  coming 
in  contact  with  the  seed.  The  best  fertilizers  for  the  pro- 
duction of  good  potatoes  is  barnyard  manure,  followed  by  a 
green  crop.  This  should  be  spread  broadcast  over  the  field. 
It  should  be  put  out  in  the  fall  and  plowed  under  just  before 
the  sowing  of  a  green  crop.  The  best  green  manure  or  mulch 
is  Texas  red  oats  and  vetch  combined.  This  makes  a  heavy 
crop  to  turn  under  before  or  while  plowing  for  the  spring 
crop.  It  is  a  wise  policy  to  combine  the  green  with  the  dry 
manure,  as  the  dry  fertilizer  used  alone  breeds  scab — par- 
ticularly if  in  close  contact  with  the  tubers. 

This  is  a  fact  not  known  to  most  potato  growers.  The 
green  crop  during  its  decomposition  forms  an  acid,  counter- 
acting the  effects  of  the  dry  manure. 

Nitrogen,  phosphoric  acid,  and  potash  are  the  three  es- 
sential plant  foods  in  all  soils,  and  are  the  most  liable  to  be 
deficient  after  several  croppings.  These  are  the  three  plant 
foods  needed  in  fertilizers.  The  dry  manure  contains  a 
good  per  cent  of  these,  and  with  the  combination  of  this  fer- 
tilizer and  the  green  crop,  practically  all  the  plant  foods  are 
obtained.  Clover  is  a  good  cover  crop,  as  it  takes  the  ni- 
trogen from  the  air  and  thence  to  the  soil.  It  contains  more 
nitrogen  than  other  legumes. 

The  "pumps"  on  the  feed  roots  cannot  absorb  any  plant 
food  unless  it  is  in  liquid  form.  This  is  the  reason  that  the 


PREPARING  TO  PLANT  AND  PLANTING  67 

soil  should  be  loose  and  fine.  The  plant  foods  are  decom- 
posed by  the  action  of  the  light,  sun,  and  air,  and  are,  there- 
fore, made  soluble.  Such  fertilizers  add  the  required  hu- 
mus to  the  soil.  All  legume  crops,  such  as  burr  clover, 
vetch,  Texas  red  oats,  and  Melilotus  Indica — in  fact,  any 
legume  crops — are  good,  providing  they  make  a  heavy  crop. 

The  soil  best  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  potatoes  is 
an  extraordinarily  rich  soil.  These  soils  are  generally  dark, 
being  a  mass  of  decayed  vegetation.  However,  any  soil 
that  is  rich  and  mellow,  regardless  of  color,  will  yield  an 
abundance  of  good  potatoes,  providing  all  other  conditions 
are  favorable,  including  climatic  conditions.  There  are,  and 
always  will  be,  some  regions  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  cul- 
ture of  the  potato.  We  would  say,  then,  that  good  soil  for 
potatoes  must  contain  a  large  proportion  of  humus,  and  it 
is  well  that  this  humus  be  well  decomposed  at  planting  time, 
making  the  soil  fine,  loose,  and  without  preventing  a  free 
circulation  of  air. 

Most  potato  growers  prefer  a  light,  sandy,  loam  soil. 
The  crop  and  the  quality  of  the  potato  is  generally  poor  if 
planted  in  an  extremely  light  or  a  heavy  clay  soil.  The  po- 
tatoes grown  on  a  mellow  soil  will  be  smooth,  while  those 
grown  on  the  heavy  clay  soils  will  be  ill-shaped.  But  if 
your  soil  has  already  been  chosen  for  your  potato  crop,  and 
is  a  heavy,  retentive  soil,  it  is  better  to  select  some  variety 
of  potatoes  that  are  almost  round,  and  you  will  note  the 
shape  of  the  tubers  produced  will  be  much  better  than  those 
of  the  longer  variety.  Another  remedy  for  the  poorer  and 
heavier  soils  is,  as  I  have  stated,  the  use  of  dry  and  green 
manures  each  year,  if  possible.  By  doing  this,  there  will 
be  more  plant  food  and  humus  put  into  the  soil  each  year 
than  is  taken  out,  increasing  the  value  and  improving  the 


58  PREPARING  TO   PLANT  AND   PLANTING 

texture  of  the  soil,  as  well  as  the  yield  and  quality  of  the  po- 
tatoes. 

It  is  not  advisable  to  plant  potatoes  in  soil  ever  contain- 
ing any  amount  of  alkali.  It  is  not  a  soil  suited  to  the 
growth  of  potatoes.  Potatoes  grown  in  this  soil  are  general- 
ly scabby.  If  the  soil  is  irrigated  during  the  growing  per- 
iod, the  alkali  appears  on  the  surface  of  the  ground,  comes 
in  contact  with  the  tubers,  bites  them  and  causes  scab. 
Land  that  is  deficient  in  fertility  or  humus  should  not  be 
used  for  the  growing  of  potatoes. 

Before  the  planting  of  a  crop  of  potatoes,  the  land 
should  be  prepared  well.  Much  of  the  future  success  of  the 
crop  is  dependent  upon  this  condition.  The  potatoes  germi- 
nate more  rapidly,  through  the  circulation  of  air,  are  not 
likely  to  decay,  and  the  greater  ease  of  culture  of  the  crop 
is  apparent. 

If  the  soil  is  dry,  irrigate  well  before  starting  to  pre- 
pare it  for  planting.  By  digging  well  into  the  subsoil,  the 
moisture  conditions  can  be  determined;  and  if  there  is  a 
shortage,  give  the  land  a  thorough  soaking.  The  upper 
moisture  should  penetrate  to  the  deep  subsoil  moisture. 
When  the  surface  is  dry  enough  to  work  without  sticking, 
plow  the  ground  thoroughly  and  harrow  as  fast  as  a  small 
area  is  plowed,  to  prevent  the  loss  of  moisture.  The  soil 
should  be  harrowed  and  re-harrowed  until  it  is  fine,  moist 
and  mellow.  This  working  kills  all  the  small  weeds,  and  at 
the  same  time  puts  the  soil  into  excellent  condition  for 
planting. 

If  it  has  not  been  convenient  to  prepare  the  soil  so  well 
before  planting,  it  is  advisable  to  plow  under  the  green  crop 
and  plant  at  the  same  time.  If  planting  in  dry  soil  (where 
it  has  been  impossible  to  irrigate)  in  the  late  fall  or  winter, 
from  November  to  the  middle  of  December,  the  grower  gen- 


PREPARING  TO  PLANT  AND  PLANTING  59 

erally  depends  upon  the  first  rain  to  start  his  crop  growing, 
and  he  waits  till  then  to  work  his  soil.  The  potatoes  are 
dropped  in  the  ground  while  dry,  and  when  the  rain  comes 
the  surface  of  the  soil  is  worked  before  the  potatoes  are  up. 
This  soil  must  be  of  a  mellow  texture.  The  time  for  plant- 
ing this  crop  is  from  November  to  the  middle  of  December. 

When  planting  in  wet  soil — that  is,  soil  that  is  never 
dry,  such  as  the  peat  land — always  plow  and  work  it  thor- 
oughly a  month  or  so  before  planting.  If  the  soil  is  very 
wet  at  planting  time,  open  up  furrows  with  a  large  cultivat- 
or plow,  wing  shovel  plow — in  fact,  any  that  will  serve  the 
purpose  of  throwing  the  dirt  both  ways,  leaving  the  furrow 
from  five  to  seven  inches  deep.  If  the  soil  is  wet  and  cold, 
these  furrows  should  be  left  two  or  three  days  to  dry  before 
planting.  When  the  potatoes  are  planted,  cover  lightly,  not 
over  two  inches  deep  at  first.  After  two  weeks,  harrow 
crosswise.  This  finishes  covering  them  and  levels  the  soil. 
When  covering  lightly  the  first  time,  use  a  harrow  running 
lengthwise,  keeping  the  horses  on  the  ridge  so  they  will  not 
trample  on  the  potatoes.  In  planting  in  March  and  April, 
be  careful  that  the  potatoes  are  deep  enough  to  be  out  of  the 
way  of  the  tuber  moth. 

In  deeper  planting,  of  about  four  to  six  inches,  do  not 
cover  up  the  pieces  completely,  if  planted  in  cold  weather; 
but  if  planted  in  the  warm  season,  cover  completely.  The 
deeper  planting  is  used  in  the  lighter  soils,  and  shallower 
planting  of  about  three  to  four  inches  in  the  heavy  and  re- 
tentive soils.  In  early  winter  in  Southern  California,  dur- 
ing the  months  of  November,  December,  January,  and  as 
late  as  the  middle  of  February,  the  seed  is  planted  shallower, 
as  the  ground  is  too  cold  and  moist.  They  are  planted  about 
three  or  four  inches  deep  at  this  time.  Deep  planting  is 
generally  considered  the  best,  except  in  winter.  If  the  tu- 


60  PREPARING  TO  PLANT  AND  PLANTING 

ber  moth  is  troublesome,  it  is  necessary  to  plant  deeply. 
The  tuber  moth  makes  its  appearance  more  often  in  soil 
that  has  not  been  worked  finely  than  in  the  mellow  soil.  In 
deep  planting,  if  possible,  plant  from  four  to  six  inches, 
partly  cover,  and  leave  two  weeks,  then  finish  covering  with 
a  harrow  running  lengthwise,  and  with  the  teeth  straight. 

If  planting  while  plowing  during  winter  months  of  No- 
vember to  February,  it  is  best  to  leave  the  soil  as  it  has  fall- 
en after  plowing,  for  two  weeks.  Then  harrow  crosswise 
at  a  depth  of  about  two  or  three  inches,  working  the 
soil  surface  thoroughly.  After  four  or  five  days  it  should 
be  harrowed  again,  this  time  lengthwise  of  the  rows.  The 
last  time  it  should  be  harrowed  crosswise,  this  being  just 
before  the  plants  are  up. 

If  the  soil  is  fouled  with  weeds,  or  a  shower  of  rain 
comes  before  the  plants  are  up,  the  soil  is  liable  to  crust; 
and  as  soon  as  the  rows  can  be  seen  it  is  well  to  harrow 
lengthwise,  being  careful  to  keep  the  horses  in  the  middle 
of  the  rows.  The  harrowing  will  not  injure  the  tops,  and 
is  the  first  and  best  cultivation  the  plants  ever  get.  The 
harrowing  stirs  the  surface  of  the  soil  and  leaves  it  free 
from  weeds,  and  the  soil  in  excellent  condition.  The  harrow 
is  best  for  this  cultivation,  as  any  other  implement,  such  as 
the  cultivator,  leaves  a  strip  of  uncultivated  soil  between 
the  hills. 

In  planting  from  the  months  of  March  to  August,  in 
any  soil,  the  potatoes  should  be  planted  from  four  to  six 
hiches  deep.  However,  if  the  soil  is  wet,  partly  cover  at 
first,  and  in  about  two  weeks  harrow  crosswise.  If  the  soil 
is  dry  and  is  to  be  irrigated,  they  should  be  covered  com- 
pletely and  harrowed  thoroughly  to  hold  the  moisture. 

The  medium  and  main  crop  is  planted  in  March  and 
April,  and  in  some  parts  of  California  as  late  as  the  tenth  of 


PREPARING  TO  PLANT  AND  PLANTING  61 

May.  Potatoes  planted  in  July  and  August  are  considered 
a  late  planting. 

The  best  season  for  planting  potatoes  in  ordinary  soils, 
where  it  is  not  extraordinarily  dry  or  wet,  is  from  the  first 
to  the  fifteenth  of  February,  for  a  heavy  yield.  For  the  best 
price,  the  time  to  plant  is  in  December  or  January.  The 
yields  at  this  time  are  not  so  great,  and  some  seasons  the 
crops  are  apt  to  be  frost-bitten.  However,  if  the  grower 
wishes  to  take  the  risk  in  the  early  planting,  he  will  receive 
in  pay  good  prices  and  a  quick  sale. 

The  best  season  for  planting  low,  wet  land,  which  is 
more  or  less  subject  to  frost,  is  from  the  twentieth  of  March 
to  the  fifth  of  April.  In  higher  altitude  frost  appears  later 
and  earlier  than  in  the  low  altitude.  The  grower  should 
know  when  to  expect  frost.  In  some  places  potatoes  cannot 
be  planted  until  the  first  of  May.  At  this  planting,  if  the 
seed  is  taken  from  a  lower  altitude,  the  grower  should  se- 
lect his  seed  from  potatoes  planted  in  July  or  August  of  the 
previous  year,  and  dug  in  December.  This  seed  should  be 
moved  to  the  higher  altitude  as  soon  as  dug,  where  they  are 
to  be  planted  by  the  first  of  May  or  later.  The  seed  will 
keep  in  a  cold  climate,  but  if  the  same  seed  were  kept  in  a 
lower  climate  the  same  length  of  time,  it  would  be  too  old  to 
plant.  The  reason  for  this  is  that  the  cold  retards  the 
growth  of  the  potato  and  they  stay  dormant  until  the  warm- 
er weather  arrives. 

Another  point  not  known  to  potato  growers  is  that  the 
changing  of  soils  from  year  to  year  keeps  it  to  its  highest 
standard  of  quality  and  productiveness.  Potatoes  grown 
on  a  low,  wet  soil,  such  as  the  peat  land,  should  be  planted 
on  a  higher,  drier  soil  the  succeeding  year. 

In  the  growing  of  potatoes  it  is  customary  to  plant  so 
as  to  admit  of  cultivation  in  one  direction  only,  the  rows  be- 


62  PREPARING  TO  PLANT  AND  PLANTING 

ing  spaced  from  thirty  to  thirty-six  inches,  depending  upon 
the  kind  of  soil,  if  dry  or  moist,  whether  the  varieties  grown 
are  early  or  late,  if  they  have  naturally  large  tops  and  are 
heavy  yielders  or  small. 

In  dry  soil  the  rows  should  be  about  thirty-six  inches 
apart,  so  that  ditches  or  furrows  for  irrigation,  in  the  center 
of  the  rows,  may  be  deep  enough  to  run  water  without  flood- 
ing the  tops.  If  the  tuber  moth  is  troublesome,  the  rows 
should  be  farther  apart  to  admit  of  better  cultivation.  The 
varieties  with  large  tops  need  wider  spacing  than  the  small- 
er-topped varieties. 

Tubers  of  early  or  small  yielding  varieties  may  be  plant- 
ed closer  than  those  of  the  large  yielding  varieties,  also 
when  planting  in  rich  soil.  There  is  not  much  gained  by 
planting  too  close  together,  at  any  time.  The  yield  and  size 
of  the  tubers  are  greatly  decreased.  The  early  varieties 
of  potatoes  do  not  yield  as  much  as  the  late  potatoes,  as  they 
mature  much  more  rapidly. 

The  seed  potatoes  are  dropped  from  fourteen  to  seven- 
teen inches  in  the  hills,  always  planting  one  seed  piece  to  the 
hill.  Some  growers  advocate  the  use  of  two  pieces  to  the 
hill,  but  if  the  seed  is  good,  one  piece  is  much  better.  The 
hills  are  generally  spaced  farther  apart  when  the  rows  are 
closer. 

A  grower  who  will  give  it  a  little  thought,  will  soon 
learn  the  variety  of  potatoes  to  use  in  his  soil,  and  the  best 
spacing  for  them,  the  fertility  of  the  soil  and  the  size  of  the 
tubers  desired  to  be  taken  into  consideration. 

Seed  potatoes  must  not  be  planted  too  soon  after  they 
are  dug.  It  is  essential  that  they  have  a  certain  amount  of 
time  to  lay  dormant  and  rest.  The  time  required  is  general- 
ly from  two  to  three  months.  In  the  interior  or  where  the 
climate  is  warm,  less  time  is  required  than  along  the  coast. 


PREPARING  TO  PLANT  AND  PLANTING  63 

However,  the  seed  should  be  six  weeks  old  before  it  is  plant- 
ed. Seed  for  the  July  and  August  planting  should  have 
been  planted  in  December  and  January  to  be  of  the  proper 
age.  For  good  seed  to  plant  in  December  and  January,  the 
potatoes  should  have  been  planted  in  the  latter  part  of  March 
or  the  first  of  April.  To  plant  in  March  and  the  first  of 
April,  the  seed  potatoes  should  have  been  planted  the  year 
preceding.  Potatoes  may  be  forced  to  grow  sooner,  but  by 
forcing  the  growth  the  yield  will  be  less  than  when  they 
have  a  longer  rest  period.  They  must  have  time  to  change 
from  starch  to  sugar.  It  is  this  chemical  change  that  takes 
place  before  the  potato  begins  to  grow.  The  bud-eye  por- 
tion of  the  potato  develops  a  sprout  sooner  than  the  stem 
end,  as  this  change  takes  place  more  readily.  The  bud-eye 
cluster  or  the  blossom  end  of  a  potato  develops  quickly  and 
has  more  vitality,  but  the  tubers  produced  from  that  end 
are  generally  rough  and  are  varied  in  size.  The  stem  end 
will  produce  more  uniform  potatoes.  However,  if  a  tuber  is 
diseased,  this  is  the  first  to  be  affected.  If  an  early  crop  of 
potatoes  is  desired,  the  bud-end  pieces  may  be  used,  as  they 
grow  more  rapidly.  I  have  experimented  by  planting 
pieces  cut  from  the  stem  and  blossom  ends  separately.  I 
find  that  those  planted  from  the  stem  end  become  more  uni- 
form in  size  and  shape  from  successive  plantings.The  longer 
this  practice  is  continued  the  more  uniform  these  potatoes 
become.  The  longer  the  bud-eye  is  planted  the  rougher  the 
tubers  produced  become.  It  is  the  center  eye  of  this  end 
that  finally  causes  the  "running  out"  of  the  potato,  and  in 
growing  is  the  first  eye  to  show,  and  is  the  first  eye  to  grow 
when  planted. 

In  the  planting  of  seed  potatoes,  I  would  advise  the 
grower  to  avoid  all  planters  that  will  bruise  or  cut  them,  as 


64  PREPARING  TO  PLANT  AND  PLANTING 

such  seed  when  planted  is  liable  to  decay.  Since  it  loses  its 
vitality,  disease  germs  are  free  to  enter. 

In  conclusion  of  this  chapter,  I  would  emphasize  the 
following : 

1st.     Good  seed. 

2nd.     Cultivate  deeply  as  well  as  thoroughly. 

3rd.  By  the  use  of  fertilizers  humus  is  added  to  the 
soil. 

4th.    The  soil  should  be  prepared  well  before  planting. 

5th.  It  is  a  wise  policy  to  change  soils  from  year  to 
year. 

6th.  Do  not  plant  too  close  together.  This  is  a  com- 
mon error. 


This  illustration  shows  how  to  plant  to  reproduce  on  top 
of  the  vine.  This  also  isn't  practical,  unless  the  grower 
wishes  a  number  of  tubers  to  plant  the  following  year. 
The  line  shows  the  depth  the  top  should  be  planted. 


CULTIVATION  AND  IRRIGATION  67 


CULTIVATION  AND  IRRIGATION. 


CHAPTER  V. 


RACTICALLY  all  the  cultivation  of  a  potato  crop 
is  done  before  they  are  up,  although  the  growing 
plants  need  a  great  amount  of  thorough  cultiva- 
tion. Cultivation  is  not  only  for  the  purpose  of 
loosening  the  soil,  therefore  conserving  the  moisture,  but 
for  the  killing  of  weeds  and  germs  as  well,  and  allowing  the 
sun,  heat,  and  air  to  penetrate  the  soil,  thus  causing  the  de- 
composition of  the  fertilizers  and  allowing  the  tubers  the 
ideal  conditions  they  require  during  formation.  The  thorough 
cultivations  warm  the  soil  and  cause  a  deeper  root  system. 
Therefore  cultivation  increases  producing  power,  by  retain- 
ing the  moisture,  making  the  plant  food  available,  allowing  a 
circulation  of  air  to  pass  about  the  forming  tubers,  and  kill- 
ing the  weeds,  thus  allowing  the  plant  food  that  would  be 
uselessly  wasted  to  go  toward  making  a  better  crop. 

Level  cultivation  generally  proves  more  satisfactory — 
that  is,  where  the  climate  and  soil  conditions  are  favorable. 
However,  where  irrigation  must  be  practiced,  the  hill  cul- 
ture or  ridge  system  is  used.  Level  cultivation  is  practiced 
where  the  soil  is  of  a  naturally  moist  nature,  or  in  soils  where 


68  CULTIVATION  AND   IRRIGATION 

the  grower  depends  upon  the  rains  to  produce  his  crop. 
When  hills  are  thrown  up  there  is  a  greater  amount  of  sur- 
face soil  exposed  to  the  sun,  and,  consequently,  the  evapora- 
tion of  the  moisture  is  greater. 

The  first  cultivation  after  the  plants  are  up  and  the 
rows  can  first  be  distinguished  is  with  the  harrow,  running 
lengthwise  of  the  rows,  being  careful  that  the  horses  are 
kept  in  the  middle,  so  they  will  not  trample  on  the  plants. 
This  harrowing  will  not  injure  the  tops  and  is  the  best  culti- 
vation the  plants  ever  get. 

After  the  first  cultivation  with  the  harrow,  when  the 
plants  are  up  two  or  three  inches,  the  cultivator  is  used. 
On  a  small  farm,  where  one-horse  cultivation  is  practiced, 
such  an  implement  as  the  five-tooth  cultivator  best  serves 
the  purpose.  It  will  keep  the  surface  of  the  soil  fine  and 
mellow.  It  is  wise  to  use  the  small  sized  teeth  at  first,  so 
too  much  dirt  will  not  be  thrown  against  the  tops.  However, 
cultivate  quite  deeply.  Always  cultivate  as  closely  to  the 
rows  as  possible  without  injuring  or  covering  them  with 
dirt.  After  the  first  cultivation  it  is  well  each  time  to  culti- 
vate farther  from  the  plants  than  the  preceding  cultiva- 
tion, as  the  tubers  are  forming,  and  when  the  feed  roots  are 
broken  a  certain  per  cent  of  vitality  is  taken  from  the  grow- 
ing plant. 

After  irrigation,  or  after  a  rain,  when  the  soil  becomes 
dry  enough  not  to  stick,  it  should  be  thoroughly  cultivated, 
and  particularly  well  if  the  soil  is  inclined  to  bake  or  crust. 
If  the  soil  is  fouled  well  with  weeds  or  weed  seed,  the  more 
frequent  and  thorough  the  cultivations  the  less  hand  work 
is  needed.  It  is  impossible  to  state  definitely  the  number  of 
cultivations  needed  in  the  growth  of  a  crop  of  potatoes.  The 
climatic  conditions,  the  character  of  the  soil,  and  the  amount 
of  weeds  determine  the  frequency  of  cultivations  needed.  It 


CULTIVATION  AND  IRRIGATION  69 

is  well  to  use  the  cultivator  as  much  as  possible,  as  the  hoe 
cuts  and  bruises  more  small  tubers  than  the  cultivator,  if 
handled  properly.  When  the  soil  has  a  great  amount  of 
weeds,  the  field  may  be  harrowed  just  before  and  after  the 
plants  are  up,  and  cultivated  well;  then  the  weeds  may  be 
kept  in  check  without  a  great  amount  of  hand  labor. 

Some  potato  growers  believe  that  a  small  amount  of 
cultivation  after  the  plants  are  up  is  all  that  is  necessary, 
but  I  have  learned  that  the  more  frequent  the  cultivations, 
without  destroying  the  vines,  the  better.  When  the  tops 
have  grown  too  large  to  cultivate  without  tearing  them  it  is 
best  to  discontinue  this  kind  of  cultivation.  However,  if  the 
weeds  still  persist,  then  the  hoe  may  be  used.  The  weeds 
should  have  been  destroyed  before  this  time,  as  they  use  up 
the  moisture  and  plant  food  rapidly. 

Potatoes,  when  irrigated,  do  not  have  the  good  quality 
as  when  grown  in  a  naturally  moist  soil,  although  the  larger 
acreage  devoted  to  potato  culture  in  California  is  irrigated. 
When  it  is  necessary  to  irrigate,  those  irrigated  by  capillary 
attraction  are  of  much  better  quality  than  those  that  are 
soaked  or  flooded. 

In  the  warm  climates,  where  irrigation  is  necessary  be- 
fore the  plants  are  up,  a  deep  furrow  should  be  made  in  the 
center  of  the  rows  to  run  the  water  in  so  that  the  moisture 
may  be  drawn  up  by  capillary  attraction,  making  the  hills 
in  a  comparatively  loose  open  ridge.  The  furrows  in  the 
center  of  the  rows  insure  even  cultivation.  In  such  warm 
climates  the  soil  should  be  irrigated  very  lightly  just  after 
planting,  as  the  moisture  in  the  soil  may  have  evaporated  to 
a  certain  extent  during  cultivation.  After  this  light  irriga- 
tion, when  the  soil  is  dry  enough  not  to  stick,  cultivate  well 
and  near  the  hills.  This  kills  the  weeds  that  may  have  start- 
ed by  irrigating.  Each  cultivation  after  the  first  should  be 


70  CULTIVATION  AND  IRRIGATION 

farther  away  from  the  rows  and  towards  the  center — a  har- 
row-tooth cultivator  or  one  that  will  serve  the  purpose  of 
mellowing  the  soil.  If  it  is  necessary  to  irrigate  more  than 
once,  deepen  the  center  furrow  again  and  cultivate  after  the 
irrigation.  When  using  the  harrow-tooth  cultivator  it  is 
well  to  narrow  it  so  it  will  not  tear  down  the  loose  soil  that 
has  been  thrown  up  against  the  potatoes.  It  should  be  just 
wide  enough  to  stir  the  wet  soil  in  the  center  of  the  rows. 

Never  allow  the  soil  to  become  too  dry.  It  should  be  in 
a  mellow,  fine  and  moist  state  always,  but  not  wet.  When 
the  soil  becomes  too  dry,  after  the  tubers  are  a  certain  size, 
and  is  then  irrigated,  a  new  growth  starts,  and  the  result  is 
knotty  tubers,  and  they  are  of  a  poor  quality.  Never  allow 
the  water  to  soak  around  the  potatoes,  but  allow  the  mois- 
ture to  be  drawn  up  by  capillary  attraction.  The  best  way 
to  determine  the  need  of  irrigation  is  to  dig  in  the  subsoil 
beside  the  large  vine,  one  that  is  forming  tubers,  as  they  use 
up  the  moisture  more  readily  than  the  smaller  vines.  If  the 
soil  around  the  hills  becomes  too  wet  the  leaves  turn  pale, 
and  when  too  dry,  they  become  a  bright,  dark  green  shade. 

When  the  tubers  have  begun  to  ripen  they  should  be 
allowed  to  mature  in  comparatively  dry  soil,  so  the  skin  may 
toughen  before  digging. 

In  planting  where  hill  culture  is  practiced,  it  is  a  wise 
plan  to  grade  the  land.  If  graded  to  a  gradual  slope,  when 
irrigated  or  when  rain  comes  the  water  will  not  stand  in  any 
one  place.  If  it  stands  in  one  place  long  it  causes  the  soil  to 
become  water  soaked  and  soggy.  When  such  poor  condi- 
tions exist  the  result  will  be  very  unsatisfactory,  generally 
making  the  tubers  scabby  and  of  a  poor  quality.  On  the 
other  hand,  if  the  slope  is  too  great,  the  water  will  make 
deep  ditches  or  washes,  causing  the  grower  severe  losses. 


CULTIVATION  AND  IRRIGATION  73 

On  moist  soil,  such  as  peat  land,  where  level  cultivation 
is  practiced,  the  best  method  of  planting  is  to  make  deep 
furrows,  then,  after  planting,  the  soil  is  harrowed  length- 
wise, covering  the  pieces  lightly.  After  two  weeks  it  is 
harrowed  again,  this  time  covering  them  more,  but  not  com- 
pletely filling  the  furrows.  Afterward,  in  the  first  cultiva- 
tion, the  loose  soil  is  rolled  up  to  the  rows,  making  the  soil 
levelj  then  a  small  harrow-tooth  cultivator  is  used,  one  that 
will  keep  the  surface  level.  This  is  called  level  cultivation, 
and  is  practiced  on  soils  containing  natural  moisture. 

In  conclusion  of  this  chapter  on  "Cultivation  and  Irri- 
gation," I  would  emphasize  these  points : 

1st.     Always  cultivate  thoroughly. 

2nd.  Allow  the  potatoes  to  mature  in  practically  dry 
soil. 

3rd.  Never  allow  the  soil  to  become  too  wet.  Potatoes 
grown  in  such  soil  are  of  a  poor  quality,  more  liable  to 
disease,  and  the  yield  is  less. 

4th.  The  number  of  irrigations  depends  upon  the  cli- 
matic and  soil  conditions.  One  may  be  sufficient,  but  in 
some  instances  five  or  six,  or  even  more,  may  be  needed. 

5th.  Cultivate  the  soil  well  before  planting  and  less 
will  be  needed  after  planting. 

6th.  Never  allow  the  potatoes  to  become  too  dry.  If 
irrigated  after  they  become  too  dry  a  new  growth  starts  and 
prongy  tubers  are  the  natural  results. 


DISEASE  AND   ITS  PREVENTION  75 


DISEASE  AND  ITS  PREVENTION. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


[HE  various  diseases,  such  as  scab,  blight,  jelly-end 
rot,  wilt  and  rhizoctonia,  which  are  more  preva- 
lent in  the  northern  districts  of  California  than 
the  southern  part,  could  be  almost  eliminated  if 
the  careful  system  of  seed  selection,  such  as  I  have  recom- 
mended, was  followed.  Very  fortunately  for  the  potato 
growers,  more  attention  is  being  given  to  the  selection  of 
vigorous  seed. 

When  good  and  pure  seed  has  been  selected,  the  grower 
should  now  turn  his  attention  to  these  disease  germs.  The 
best  method  is  to  plant  a  legumus  crop  of  Melolotus  Indica, 
or  Red  Oats,  or  most  any  good  green  crop  that  will  grow 
rapidly  and  vigorously.  When  this  is  turned  under  the  acid 
formed  will  play  havoc  with  the  disease  germs. 

After  careful  cultivation  and  planting,  when  the  po- 
tatoes have  grown  to  about  two  or  four  inches  high,  it  is 
wise  to  spray  with  the  Bordeaux  mixture.  I  recommend 
spraying  at  this  time  rather  than  later,  as  this  spray  is  a 
preventative  of  disease,  rather  than  a  cure,  and  the  sooner 
the  plants  are  sprayed  the  better.  If  the  disease  is  in  the 


76  DISEASE  AND  ITS  PREVENTION 

seed  piece  or  soil,  it  will  make  its  appearance  sooner  or  later, 
and,  if  the  disease  is  to  be  prevented,  it  should  be  taken  in 
time. 

Some  growers  advise  first  spraying  the  plants  when  a 
certain  age.  Would  it  be  wise  if  smallpox,  or  any  dreaded 
disease,  prevailed  in  a  family,  and  some  had  been  exposed 
to  it,  to  wait  until  the  child  was  a  certain  age  to  vaccinate  ? 
No,  this  should  be  done  early,  in  order  to  prevent  it.  This 
same  precaution  should  be  considered  in  the  growing  of  a 
crop  of  potatoes. 

After  the  first  spraying,  the  plants  should  be  sprayed 
about  every  two  weeks  during  their  growing  season.  How- 
ever, the  crop  should  be  sprayed  just  after  a  shower  of  rain, 
as  it  is  such  conditions  as  rain  followed  by  sunshine  that 
causes  blight.  These  spores  increase  so  rapidly  that  the 
whole  field  might  be  blighted  down  in  two  or  three  days  if 
the  sun  shines  warmly.  Therefore,  I  would  say  that  the 
whole  idea  of  spraying  is  to  protect  the  vine  when  the  dis- 
ease appears. 

If  Paris  green  is  added  to  the  Bordeaux,  the  mixture 
will  adhere  to  the  leaves,  and,  as  it  is  a  poison,  no  insects  can 
eat  of  it  unless  they  are  poisoned.  Since  it  is  a  poison,  it 
should  be  handled  carefully  and  kept  away  from  children  or 
stock. 

Not  only  is  the  use  of  this  mixture  advisable  for  in- 
sects and  disease,  but  for  the  increased  vigor  of  the  plant 
from  its  use.  All  sprayed  plants  are  larger  and  darker  green, 
live  longer,  are  hardier,  and  produce  a  better  crop.  I  should 
advise  to  always  use  at  the  rate  of  one-half  pound  of  Paris 
green  to  each  fifty  gallons  of  Bordeaux  mixture. 

It  is  well  to  use  a  high  pressure  spray  with  fine  nozzle, 
so  that  all  sides  of  the  leaves  are  thoroughly  coated.  If  the 


This  illustration  shows  a  potato  affected  with  the  Wilt. 


DISEASE  AND  ITS  PREVENTION  79 

vines  are  not  sprayed  thoroughly  the  insects  may  gain  foot- 
hold and  a  portion  of  the  crop  be  destroyed. 

In  preparing  the  Bordeaux  mixture,  if  a  small  amount 
is  to  be  made,  have  ready  two  half -barrel  tubs,  one  for  the 
copper-sulphate  solution,  and  the  other  for  the  lime  solu- 
tion. In  one  tub  place  five  pounds  of  lime  and  slake  with 
sufficient  water  to  thoroughly  break  up  the  lime  without 
allowing  it  to  burn.  After  it  has  been  thoroughly  slaked, 
add  enough  water  to  make  five  gallons  of  this  solution.  In 
the  other  tub,  put  five  gallons  of  water  and  suspend  five 
pounds  of  copper-sulphate  in  a  gunny  sack,  so  that  two- 
thirds  of  the  copper-sulphate  is  in  water  and  the  other  part 
in  air,  as  it  requires  air  and  water  to  dissolve.  This  should 
be  dissolved  in  about  twelve  hours.  These  are  called  the 
stock  solutions  and  will  keep  for  some  time  if  kept  in  a  cool 
place,  but  when  they  are  mixed  the  spray  should  be  used  im- 
mediately. When  ready  to  spray,  mix  and  pour  enough  wa- 
ter into  it  to  make  fifty  gallons  in  all.  When  strained  and 
mixed  thoroughly  it  is  ready  for  use.  The  solutions  should 
always  be  kept  thoroughly  stirred. 

The  spray  treatment  is  generally  used  for  the  blight, 
yet  when  the  Paris  green  is  added  it  is  equally  effective  for 
the  small  insects,  such  as  the  black  flea  beetle  and  the 
Empoasca  Mali,  a  little  green  hopper.  If  blight  and  insect 
pests  are  eliminated  there  will  be  less  of  the  other  diseases 
because  of  the  consequent  healthy  condition  of  the  plants. 

When  potatoes  are  blighted  the  larger  portion  of  the 
tubers  are  subject  to  a  rot  called  "Jelly-End,"  and  some- 
times, when  dug  early,  before  it  appears,  they  are  generally 
subject  to  "Dry  Rot."  As  the  blight  is  in  the  seed  piece  and 
soil,  it  is  wise  to  select  good  seed  and  spray  to  prevent  the 
appearance  of  the  blight.  Few  people  know  or  can  appre- 
ciate the  injury  done  by  the  little  black  flea  beetle.  They  at- 


80  DISEASE  AND  ITS  PREVENTION 

tack  and  live  on  the  leaves  of  the  plant,  and  the  damage  they 
do  to  the  living  plant  is  immense.  They  eat  small  holes  into 
the  leaves,  and,  as  the  leaves  are  the  "lungs"  of  the  plant,  it 
is  easily  understood  why  these  pests  are  so  injurious  to  a 
crop.  These  beetles  are  generally  found  on  the  under  side  of 
the  leaf. 

The  Empoasca  Mali,  a  small,  green  hopper,  feeds  on  the 
under  side  of  the  leaf  and  seems  to  suck  the  very  life  from 
the  plant.  As  they  increase  very  rapidly,  a  large  amount  of 
vitality  is  taken  from  the  vine  before  they  are  noticed,  and, 
indeed,  many  crops  are  destroyed  by  them. 

Scab  is  a  very  common  disease  of  the  potato,  but  is  not 
so  serious  as  generally  supposed.  There  are  several  causes 
for  the  scab:  1st.  Alkali  in  the  soil.  2nd.  Too  much  dry 
manure.  3rd.  Poorly  drained  soil,  as  the  alkali  of  the  soil 
when  too  damp  will  appear  on  the  surface.  The  best  remedy 
for  this  disease  is  the  use  of  the  green  fertilizer,  the  acid 
from  which  counteracts  the  effect  of  the  dry  manure.  When 
this  is  persistently  carried  out,  I  find  that  there  is  no  need  of 
"dipping"  for  scab.  However,  if  it  seems  best,  the  grower 
may  soak  the  seed  in  a  solution  of  corrosive-sublimate  for 
one  and  one-half  hours,  made  at  the  rate  of  one  ounce  of 
powdered  corrosive-sublimate  to  eight  gallons  of  water.  As 
this  is  a  poison,  it  should  be  handled  with  care.  It  is  a 
stronger  poison  than  the  formaldehyde  solution,  therefore, 
serves  the  purpose  better.  Since  this  disease  stays  in  the 
soil,  it  is  best  to  treat  it  by  the  use  of  green  fertilizer.  Even 
if  very  little  disease  exists,  it  is  always  wise  to  combine  the 
dry  and  green  fertilizer,  and  the  grower  will  unusually  be 
successful. 

Wilt  is  a  disease  which  works  in  the  vine  and  cannot  be 
reached  by  spraying.  As  this  disease  goes  from  the  stem 
into  the  tuber,  it  is  well  to  harvest  before  maturity.  This 


DISEASE  AND   ITS  PREVENTION  81 

disease  causes  the  vine  to  wilt,  and  often  leaves  the  tubers 
about  half  the  size  they  should  be,  and  these  diseased  tubers 
decay  quickly. 

When  the  plants  are  infected  with  wilt  or  blight,  there 
is  always  a  shortage  of  starch,  causing  them  to  decay  quick- 
ly. If  this  does  not  happen,  the  food  value  will  be  greatly 
decreased.  When  the  tuber  is  first  formed  it  consists  chief- 
ly of  water,  and  as  it  grows  the  starch  is  formed.  Changing 
the  seed  from  one  soil  to  another  from  year  to  year  not  only 
increases  the  yield,  by  making  the  seed  more  free  of  disease, 
but  by  increasing  the  starch  content.  As  the  feed  roots  give 
nourishment  to  the  vine,  when  the  vine  is  affected  by  these 
diseases,  the  food  supply  is  cut  off  from  the  tuber,  and,  in- 
stead of  plant  food,  the  disease  in  the  stem  is  taken  into  the 
tuber. 

The  hills  of  potatoes  with  wilt  always  have  small  tubers, 
and,  if  these  small  tubers  of  a  field  are  not  eliminated,  they 
will  be  used  as  seed,  and,  consequently,  the  wilt  will  appear 
the  following  season.  The  wilt  is  always  introduced  into  a 
clean  field  by  a  diseased  tuber.  The  only  way  known  to  con- 
trol this  disease  is  to  eliminate  the  diseased  tubers  from 
the  stock. 

The  tuber  moth  is  a  small  moth  or  fly  and  generally  ap- 
pears in  the  tubers  that  are  dug  and  left  in  a  pile.  They  are 
seldom  seen  in  the  peat  land,  but  do  appear  at  times.  They 
can  gain  a  better  foothold  on  the  drier,  cloddy  soils.  In  early 
plantings,  I  always  dig  and  market  before  the  potatoes  are 
mature,  before  the  tuber  moth  appears.  They  seldom  bother 
a  fall  crop,  planted  in  July  or  August,  unless  the  soil  is  clod- 
dy, which,  of  course,  is  an  unfavorable  condition  for  the  soil 
to  be  in  for  potatoes.  The  potatoes  that  are  dug  before  fully 
matured  are  less  liable  to  disease,  as  they  have  less  time  to 
grow,  and  the  disease  does  not  have  the  time  to  go  into  the 


82  DISEASE  AND  ITS  PREVENTION 

tubers.  When  the  tubers  are  cut,  the  disease  germs  may 
enter  easily. 

Gophers  are  another  pest  to  the  potato  grower.  They 
will  do  a  great  amount  of  damage  in  one  night,  by  cutting 
the  vines.  If  the  vines  grow  again  the  tubers  that  appear 
will  be  prongy,  and  sometimes  will  cause  small  tubers  to 
grow  on  the  vine,  between  the  leaf  and  the  stalk. 

In  conclusion  of  this  chapter  on  "Disease  and  Its  Pre- 
vention," I  would  emphasize  the  following  points : 

1st.     Above  all  things,  never  plant  diseased  potatoes. 

2nd.  The  more  thorough  the  cultivation  and  the  richer 
the  soil,  the  less  liable  are  the  tubers  to  disease. 

3rd.  Cull  potatoes  are  responsible  to  a  great  extent  for 
the  increase  of  disease  and  should  always  be  removed  from 
the  fields  at  harvest  time. 

4th.  In  spraying  it  is  well  to  use  a  high-pressure  spray 
and  a  fine  nozzle. 

5th.  Never  leave  volunteer  potatoes  in  the  field  from 
year  to  year,  as  it  is  these  small  diseased  tubers  that  cause 
the  spreading  of  disease. 


W^^ :;.,,,;, 


The  Scottish  Chief  potato  is  the  best  marketable  tuber 
known. 


HARVESTING  AND   MARKETING  85 


HARVESTING  AND  MARKETING. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


HE  first  step  in  the  grading  of  potatoes  takes  us 
back  to  the  selection  of  seed.  Unless  good  seed 
is  selected  to  produce  the  crop,  we  cannot  expect 

a  yield  of  good  marketable  potatoes.  The  few 

potatoes  produced  from  poor  seed  vary  so  greatly  in  size  and 
shape  and  are  of  such  poor  quality  that  twice  the  amount 
of  work  is  required  to  grade.  However,  it  is  just  such  poor 
stock  that  is  generally  found  in  the  stores  and  markets,  and, 
consequently,  must  be  sold  for  a  low  price.  If  a  strict  sys- 
tem of  seed  selection  and  grading  of  the  stock  was  used,  a 
better  price  could  be  demanded,  and  the  consumer  would 
gladly  pay  the  extra  cost  for  the  better  quality. 

The  general  lot  of  potatoes  found  on  the  market  are 
poor  in  quality,  small,  diseased,  and,  therefore,  lacking  in 
food  value.  The  loss  to  the  consumer,  as  well  as  the  buyer 
and  producer,  is  great,  being  about  50  per  cent,  whereas,  po- 
tatoes grown  from  good,  well-sorted  seed  are  not  only  more 
palatable,  but  there  is  a  very  small  per  cent  of  waste. 

When  a  potato  is  cut  lengthwise,  in  the  center  will  be 
seen  a  layer  resembling  the  trunk  of  a  tree,  with  branches 


HARVESTING  AND  MARKETING 


running  to  each  eye.  This  is  called  the  internal  medullary 
layer  and  consists  chiefly  of  water.  In  the  analysis  of  a  po- 
tato with  few  eyes,  it  is  found  that  it  has  much  better  food 
value,  as  it  is  largely  indicated  by  starch  content,  and  the 
part  containing  the  most  starch  is  near  the  surface.  This 
is  called  the  cortical  layer.  Thus,  we  would  conclude  that  the 
potato  with  few  eyes  would  not  only  be  less  waste,  and  be 
more  palatable,  but  would  contain  more  food  material. 

In  propagating  and  breeding  my  new  potatoes  I  have 
always  been  most  careful  to  select  those  that  are  smooth 
and  with  fewest  eyes,  and,  consequently,  have  the  best  in 
food  value. 

Unfortunately,  the  average  grower  has  paid  little  atten- 
tion to  the  production  of  the  good  quality  potato,  but  has 
grown  them  with  as  little  expense  as  possible,  regardless  of 
the  palatability,  not  once  thinking  of  the  expense  of  ship- 
ment of  these  culls,  and,  on  account  of  the  absence  of  starch, 
the  short  time  in  which  they  remain  free  from  decay.  The 
consumption  of  such  potatoes  is  small,  because  of  the  un- 
palatability.  However,  they  are  called  potatoes,  and  are 
used  as  an  article  of  diet. 

If  sixty  per  cent  of  the  average  run  of  potatoes  were 
sent  to  market  and  about  forty  per  cent  kept  to  feed  stock, 
the  grower  would  gain  more  by  those  sent  to  market,  be- 
cause of  the  higher  price,  besides  having  the  forty  per  cent 
to  feed  stock. 

In  my  experience  in  handling  graded  stock,  I  have  al- 
ways received  from  fifty  to  seventy-five  cents  more  per  hun- 
dred than  most  potato  growers,  and  have  always  found  an 
ever-ready  market  for  such  graded  stock. 

I  generally  grade  in  two  grades,  but,  if  I  only  have  one 
grade  for  market,  that  is  always  the  best.  When  the  dealer 
may  depend  on  the  grade  there  is  always  a  ready  market. 


Young's  Early  Harvest  King.  This  is  the  greatest 
yielder  of  any  early  variety  known,  and  is  of  excellent 
quality. 


HARVESTING  AND   MARKETING  89 

It  is  well  when  grading  to  grade  as  though  you  were  buying 
the  stock  yourself.  Every  grower  has  his  particular  way 
of  digging,  but  whether  it  be  with  plow,  digger  or  hook,  do 
not  cut  or  bruise  the  tubers  or  throw  them  into  piles,  as  they 
will  rot  easily  if  handled  roughly.  If  grading  for  market 
while  digging,  the  potatoes  should  be  allowed  to  dry  before 
being  sacked,  so  the  soil  will  not  adhere  to  them,  making 
them  rough  looking.  However,  they  should  never  stay  in 
the  sun  too  long.  Such  treatment  causes  the  tender  tubers 
to  green  and  decay  quickly. 

If  potatoes  are  not  marketed  immediately  they  should 
be  kept  in  a  cool,  dry,  shady  place  and  covered  so  that  the 
light,  air  or  sun  may  not  strike  them.  If  it  does  they  will 
turn  green,  and,  in  so  doing,  a  chemical  change  takes  place 
in  the  cortical  layer,  making  the  potato  unpalatable,  the 
flavor  being  rather  sweetish,  and  sometimes  bitter. 

In  harvesting  the  early  crop  in  particular,  it  is  best  to 
harvest  before  maturity — that  is,  before  the  vines  are  dry, 
so  the  disease  cannot  enter  the  tuber  through  the  stem.  In 
so  doing  the  tubers  will  keep  longer  for  seed  or  for  market- 
able purposes. 

As  to  the  quality  of  the  potato,  I  may  say  that  all  con- 
ditions of  environment  that  lead  to  the  normal  development 
of  a  healthy,  mature  potato  contribute  toward  its  quality. 
The  potato  planted  in  soil  three  inches  deep  is  of  poorer 
quality  than  those  planted  from  five  to  seven  inches  deep. 
I  find  that  when  they  are  planted  from  five  to  seven  inches 
deep  the  temperature  is  of  more  uniformity  during  the  grow- 
ing season  than  at  shallower  depths.  Not  only  does  the  depth 
at  which  the  potato  is  planted  determine  its  quality,  but  the 
fertilizer,  season  and  variety  as  well. 

Fertilizers  have  a  decided  influence  over  the  quality  of 
the  potato,  as  they  aid  in  producing  a  normal  development 


90  HARVESTING  AND  MARKETING 

of  tubers  by  furnishing  an  element  of  fertility  which  is  lack- 
ing in  the  soil.  Some  conditions  that  affect  the  table  quality 
of  the  potato  are,  size,  and  shape,  fertility  of  soil,  cultiva- 
tion, climate  and  season,  maturity,  and  in  general  the  quali- 
ty is  increased  with  the  thickness  of  the  cortical  layer,  and 
decreases  as  the  number  of  eyes  increase. 

In  conclusion  of  this  chapter,  I  would  impress  some 
points  upon  the  reader's  mind : 

1st.  Use  good  grading  system,  thereby  building  up 
a  good  market  for  your  particular  grade. 

2nd.  Never  leave  culls  in  the  field  to  become  a  volun- 
teer crop  the  following  season.  This  will  finally  cause  the 
"running  out"  of  the  potato,  and  where  disease  is  evident 
and  the  crop  is  harvested  in  this  careless  manner,  the  fol- 
lowing year  will  increase  the  amount  of  disease. 

3rd.  Handle  the  tubers  as  little  as  possible,  and  care- 
fully. 


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